Friday 25 July 2014

Feeding


Feeding – Why, What, Where, When, How

I can't tell you how to feed. There are just too many variables. But I can explain some general principles, ideas and hints that may help.

For me there is one golden rule about feeding :-


Never feed without understanding what it is you are trying to achieve.
Always understand why you are feeding what you are feeding and when, where, how you are feeding it.

To explain that it may be easier to give a couple of examples of what I see as bad feeding technique and then go from there.

All of the following were witnessed on a local club lake, part of the Wellingborough Nene AC waters. “Millcotton” has been dug out as a commercial style snake/canal. 13M wide on average with forty pegs (plus five disabled stands in the car park) around an island. From above it looks like a compressed/stretched kidney shape. Stocking is with carp to the odd 10/11lb fish (average is 2-3lb but enough 4-8s to keep you interested) and plenty of silvers including some crucians to two pound.

My normally successful approach in a pleasure session is to fish at around 8 metres and feed micros or four mils regularly through a tosspot keeping everything tight. In pleasure sessions I'm too lazy to fish the 14m of pole required to target the far bank and will often fish that with a pellet feeder. The margins can also give good sport and produce the larger fish. Here I just trickle in some pellets and corn.

Anyway – Bad Feeding 1 – While fishing I heard that unmistakeable sound of someone a few pegs along feeding a handful of corn. As I looked over he fed another two or three handfuls around his float that was just off the end of his rod tip. He then lifted the float out and I could see he was fishing around 2-3 ft deep. Problem for me is that at that point the lake is five foot deep.

I can recall fishing corn at half depth on two occasions. Both were in the far bank margin and the fish had given me indications that they were intercepting my small amount of corn feed midwater. So while I see it as a legitimate if little used tactic the feeding I had witnessed didn't match the depth being fished. Three handfuls of corn would, to me, pin the fish to the deck so it would have been best to fish full depth or feed one or two grains regularly or even liquidised corn if you want to target midwater.

Bad Feeding 2 – Two lads turned up with chairs and “carp” gear and sat themselves a few pegs from me. Next thing I heard was a swoosh as one of them started to throw in a pre prepared seed mixture. I think it is done by Dynamite and comes in large “sweety” type jars with screw lids. This lad broadcast at least six handfulls of this mixture all over the far half of his swim and then proceeded to do the same to his mate's. Now, consider that he has probably just carpeted an area roughly twenty metres wide by six and a half across, that's 130 square metres.

This may be a legitimate tactic on some large carp lakes such as may only contain a half dozen specimen and named carp and you are prepared to wait 48 hours for a bite, not being a “carp” angler I can't be certain. But on Millcotton all I see it as doing is allowing the fish to possibly mop up 130 square metres of feed before finding your single hookbait. Consider that my bait is sitting in a fed area of probably no more than one square foot. To me no wonder that I caught and they blanked.

Bad Feeding 3 – Actually no feeding at all. A lad pitched up next to me one day (lake was virtually empty but he still decided to sit on the next peg – go figure!) and fished the pellet waggler. Again a legitimate tactic though one I see no need for on this lake. He fished for three hours without feeding one single thing, just cast the float around the swim. Yes he picked up two stray fish. But one of the basic requirements of pellet waggler fishing is feed, feed, feed. Maybe not loads and frequently but regularly. Others may know of occasions when they have seen the pellet waggler score without feeding, I can't recall any.

In each of the examples above each tactic was legitimate and all the feeding methods have their day. But on none of the occasions did the feeding match the tactic and hence, as I witnessed, very few fish were caught.

So what can I say that will help?  First consider -

Why Feed?

The simple answer is “To attract fish into your swim and hold them there”. Correct but not the whole answer. Carpeting 130 square metres with bait will do that, but we are trying to catch the fish, not just feed them. That's what garden ponds are for. So the whole answer is that we are trying to get fish into a position where they are confident to take up our hookbait and in the right place to do so without delay.

Fish are wild animals and naturally have a survival instinct that means they will be wary of anything that appears odd. They understand their environment and know when something is alien and thus possibly dangerous. If we think that a fish cannot see our hooks and line then we are deluded. While a fish may not be able to understand what our terminal tackle is it is still an alien presence in their environment and thus something to be avoided. So we have to somehow overcome that natural caution and feeding helps.

One sure fire way of getting fish to ignore danger signs is to create competition. The need to eat can overcome the fear of something not looking right. This was demonstrated to me nearly fifty years ago. I started my fishing as a boy on holidays in Scotland fishing a small, crystal clear trout stream. One day I discovered the biggest trout I had seen under an overhanging tree. For days I would cast a worm to him, trundle it past, let it sit in front and even occasionally bouncing it off his nose. All he did was disdainfully move a couple of inches to one side. Then one day, with the worm sitting on the deck about two foot in front I saw an eel emerge from the leaf litter under the trout and head towards the worm. In about two seconds the trout shot forward, grabbed the worm and then exploded out of the water as I struck. He threw the hook and was gone never to be seen again.

That trout knew that there was something wrong with my worm (may have been the size six hook and hawser-like line) and would never have touched it. Until, that is, he was in danger of losing out to another fish. Competition for food will make a fish forget all caution. Our feeding must do that. We need to attract enough fish into the swim to create that competition.  But we don't want to overfeed.

What to feed? (and how much)

Really two schools of thought here. Feed what you are fishing on the hook so the fish get used to that bait and will take the hookbait with confidence. Or fish something different on the hook to what you are feeding so it stands out and fish can target it.

I guess I do both. You can never tell on any given day what the fish will want so you have to experiment.

On a match in August 2013, my first having been in hospital recovering from a brain haemorrhage, I was incapable of holding much more than four sections of pole for too long so concentrated on the margins. This was Decoy's Horseshoe lake where I do well in the margins anyway. It was a frustrating first few hours as I was taking the odd fish but not big enough or frequently enough to challenge. I had been feeding pellet in the margin and then eventually tried introducing just 6 grains of corn. This almost instantly brought in much bigger fish and I was catching them quicker. I ended with 103lb for fourth only 18lb behind the winner.

I can't explain why fish can afford to be choosy and react better to one bait rather than another. But we don't need to know why this happens, just that it does. So if you are not catching you have to experiment with other baits both on the hook and importantly what you feed. By all means start with what you have confidence in and believe will work. If it doesn't then be prepared to change.  Change baits, change amounts.

How much to feed at any one time is also a subject for experimentation.  You can't just pitch up and feed as you did the last time you fished the venue.  Conditions change, the fish have different moods so you need to be flexible.  I carry a number of home made toss pots for the pole.  There are several different sizes so I can regulate the amount I feed by changing the size of pot.  Sometimes the fish want a carpet of bait over which to graze, other times this will drive them away and you need to feed sparingly but regularly.  There are no guidelines for this.  But you need to recognise the signs.  If  the fish back off and you get no bites for a while after feeding then you may need to cut back on your feed or feed less frequently but heavily and fish that out when the fish return before re-feeding another potfull.  If you get almost instant bites at first and these tail off you may need to feed more regularly and/or heavier.

As a general rule fish will want more bait in the Summer than in the colder months.  But I have known January/February days when I have started feeding sparingly yet by the end of the day am feeding a large potful regularly and have used three pints of pellet as the fish grew increasingly confident.  And this will change day-to-day and fishery to fishery.  So you have to feel your way into each session and adapt to the reactions of the fish.

Where do I feed?

Strangely probably not a feeding question at all but one about water knowledge, conditions and plumbing up. Most of the time we will know something of the water being fished and have an understanding of where the fish are likely to be found. It would seem logical to me to feed where the fish want to be rather than trying to force them somewhere else. You wouldn't expect dinner to be served in the bathroom.  You may go and eat it there but you wouldn't be comfortable and may want to get out quickly.

You also need to consider how you want to fish and conditions. If for example you want to fish pellet at dead depth then you really need to find a flat area. But if the bottom is very silty then it may be worth finding a slope that will be clean and easier for the fish to find your bait.

One reason I fish the pole is I love the accuracy. So when feeding I find an immovable far bank marker or even reflection on the water and make sure I feed to the same spot every time. Though sometimes with species like bream it can pay to widen the area slightly, particularly with an initial groundbait bombardment as bream like to graze and can be in big shoals. But even if you feed tight to one spot the active fish will move your feed around, so no need for you to do it.

If there is a tow on the water you may find that you get bites “down tow” from where you feed. Don't try and follow this with your subsequent feeding as the fish will move as the tow takes the bait away. Always feed to the same spot and let the fish settle down tow.

When to feed?

This really is the 64 million dollar question. Re-feeding too early can put the fish off and also reduce the chances of the fish selecting your hookbait. Too late and the fish have drifted away meaning a blank spell until they return. You probably will not get this right immediately. It is only by experimenting on the day that you will get the right frequency. In essence what we are trying to do is replace the food at the same rate as it is being consumed by the fish. This will be different day to day and change during the day. It is the angler that senses these changes and reacts to them earliest that will do well. It is down to sensing the change in rhythm of bites and how this changes as you feed.

This is also why I like to feed two, three even four spots in my swim. That gives me the ability to feed each differently, different amounts, baits and rate and then judge how the fish are reacting. Over the day I may find one or two spots outdo the others and will gradually concentrate my efforts there.

Two broad guidelines though do exist. Little and often may bring the fish up in the water. Whether you want this is down to how you intend to catch on the day. Or you can feed a lot in one go and hopefully pin the fish down on the deck.

How do you feed?

By hand, catapult, pole pot, feeder? All are methods available to us and each has their purpose and day. Three examples from my own experience may help explain.

Match 1 – on the river Lee at Broxbourne's Crown stretch. Famous in those days (80s) for its chub. The far bank has houses with gardens down to the water's edge. Many have landing stages that make an ideal home for the chub. A wag & mag approach was the usual tactic with the float drifting along the edge of the staging or moored boat. On this day I drew a good peg and spent the first hour on the waggler catapulting maggots with no result. I then chucked a maggot feeder over and in the next hour had two gudgeon. Back on the waggler and suddenly I was taking chub. Won the match with 8/9 fish for around 24lb. Something about depositing a feeder full of maggots regularly brought those fish out to play. I still don't understand why.

Match 2 – Decoy's Cedar lake and I had a corner peg with an enticing margin just over topkit distance away. Easily fed by hand which is what I did for the first hour. That produced only four fish despite the signs of there being plenty in the swim. A switch to feeding through a tosspot changed things and I started to catch regularly. The difference was, I think, that the tosspot concentrated the feed on one spot and thus brought the fish to my hookbait. Feeding by hand allowed the bait to spread too far and so fish were all over the shop and not homing in on my bait. I ended second that day with 124lb.

Match 3 – Holly Farm, Moby lake. A small knock-up. Started feeding pellet and had loads of fizzing and few fish. A switch to dumping in a potful of corn stopped the fizz and brought fish to 10lb. I doubled the second place weight with around 55lb. Others were feeding corn but not catching. Difference was I was cupping in while they were throwing. I tend to think the large number of silvers in the lake were able to intercept the thrown corn as it was spread out while my potful being concentrated mostly reached the deck and so brought in the carp.

So how you feed can make a big difference

Finally

There are times when all logic and careful planning and execution just don't work. A few years ago I fished a two day match at Kilworth Sticks fishery, two matches over two lakes. One section on each lake and swapping to the other lake on day 2. Day one saw me take fifth on Curran's loop. Happy with that as I was up against some very good anglers. Day 2 on Buffalo loop and with an hour to go I was getting my backside kicked off the next peg and was probably last on the lake. Out of desperation I just dumped a big potful of corn & pellet under a bush on the island bank opposite (plan X). Within fifteen/twenty minutes I had landed two seven pound carp. I won the lake and gained fourth over the two days picking up a little coin and a new pellet waggler rod.

In conclusion I can only repeat what I started out saying. Always feed with a purpose in mind, never just aimlessly throw in bait. Watch for the signs from the fish as to what they want on the day. Experiment if things aren't working or you think they can be improved. Don't be afraid to do something different but always understand why you are doing it.

Listen to the fish, they haven't read any books and can be totally illogical as a result.

Feeding is an artform and there are very few artists. The rest of us have to work hard at getting it right. But get it right and the rewards are well worth the effort.

Friday 11 July 2014

My Simple Approach To Pole Fishing


Note, May 2018.  As nearly four years has passed since I first wrote this a couple of things have changed.  So I have updated some of the information.

Further updated September 2021.


In 2010 I looked at my rig tray and realised that I had well and truly overcomplicated things. I had, over the years, tried to buy floats for every conceivable situation. This realisation coincided with me discovering BGT floats*. I also had rigs of various line strengths and lengths, hooks and hooklengths were the same. When I sat down on a peg and looked in my rig tray I was confused at to what to use. This then led to me having doubts as to whether I was using the “right” float/line/hook. Invariably I would convince myself that I had left the right rig at home. And this impacted my fishing. So it was a bit like a revelation that struck me when, in conjunction with looking at the BGT float range, I decided to simplify everything.

 
The change in my fishing was marked and rewarding. Previously I was happy if I framed in a few club matches a year. After the change I started framing regularly and winning a few more. I was also holding my own in a few open matches.  I hasten to point out here that I am not mentally challenged or simple minded. But I had overthought what I was doing.  I needed to simplify the tackle so I could then concentrate on what I now believe to be the three most important things – location, presentation and bait (including feeding and hookbait). So all the existing rigs, floats and hooklengths were thrown out.


Floats
I initially opted for four floats from the BGT range (for commercial fisheries) though I have now changed that slightly, each float has a specific though broad purpose.  The first two (BGT1, Shallow-Long) will account for at least 90% of my Summer pole fishing.  It can't get more simple than that. 

You will also realise that I colour code my rigs by using a certain colour winder for each rig type.  Makes picking up the right rig easy.

 
BGT1 - a 0.2g, 2mm hollow bristled float ideal for margin work, either near or far bank. Rig length 4 ft, on a light blue winder.  I do now add a spring eye for added security.

BGT1
 
 
Shallow-Long – 0.5g same float as the BGT1 but with a longer stem. Both floats have an elongated rugby ball shape. The Shallow-Long rig length is seven foot and is used in open water or margins too deep for the BGT1. Navy blue winder.

Shallow-Long
 
Grey – 0.5g with a thinner 1.2mm solid bristle and longer body shape than the Shallow-Long/BGT1.  Seven foot rig and used in open water where a more delicate approach is desired. Sees more use in the Winter. Green winder.
Grey – 1g. Ten foot rig for deeper swims or days when there is a tow on the water. Yellow winder.

The bristle on the Grey is not robust enough for carp in Summer.

Grey
 

Blue – 1g round bodied with a slim bristle. Ten foot rig on a pink winder and used in open water when depth is greater than six foot or shallower swims when there is a tow. The Grey and the Blue are interchangeable as they are both 1g floats.  Though the bristle on the grey is slightly slimmer and more fragile and so tends to see more use in Winter when the carp are less active.
 
Blue
 

All rigs are on 0.17 mainline (Preston Reflo Power) with the exception that the Greys on 0.13 for Winter, silvers and F1s. With these five I can fish any swim I draw on the commercials I have fished since making this change. The advantage for me is there is now no doubt in my mind when choosing a rig and fishing. I make the rig work for me. Yes it may not be perfect as desired by a top angler. But I think that little bit of perfection lost is more than compensated by my confidence in the rig and the ability to concentrate on those three more important things I mentioned earlier. The colour coding of the winders and the limited range of line strengths means I can select the right rig without fuss and I don't need to label the winders.  All confusion and doubt has been removed.

My simple rig collection

In 2013 I also started to carry the BGT Beedee, originally bought as an up in the water float with a couple of venues in mind.  0.2g on four foot of 0.17 line. But I rarely fish this method. I now also use this float for very shallow margins.  An experience where I could see fish shying away from the longer BGT1 showed me the importance of using an unobtrusive float when the fish are likely to be able to see it.  These are carried on a pink/light red winder.  I have also made up a few on 0.19 line straight through to an extra strong hook for one particular lake where the margin fish are regularly ten pound and a tad over.  These are in a separate box and on a red slider winder.

Beedee (next to a 5p piece)


One final set of floats I use rarely is the Avanti Choppy. I won these floats in a raffle and have to admit threw them in the back of a drawer when I got home. But what I later realised was that they were ideal floats for when the weather is really rough. The four floats range from 4x16 to 1.5g but crucially they have the longest bristle I have seen on a float at 8cm/3 ¼ inch. This means when there is a heavy chop on the water the body is well below it and the float rides well through the surface. They are mounted on ten foot of 0.17 line, purple winder. These floats stay at home most of the time unless a strong wind is forecast.

Choppy

Since discovering the benefits of the much longer Choppy float in very poor conditions I have both bought and made some specific windbeater floats.  The ones I bought are from the DT Floats range.  They look odd but fish brilliantly.  Overall the DT float is 30cm/12 inches long and 0.8g.  My home meade is smaller at 24cm/9.5 inch and 0.5-6g.  The length of the bristle (14 & 9cm) means the body of the float stays below the surface turbulence when windy and the overall length makes it very stable.  In the main they have replaced the Choppy but I still carry that as well.

Grey body, DT Windbeater.  Red body, home made version.

All my windbeater type float rigs are carried in a handy organiser box making them easy to grab on a day they might be needed.  The box cost £2.99 from B&M (the Guru colouring is a coincidence).




I have taken to adding a spring eye to all my Summer floats on 0.17 line. This simple & cheap job just prevents the side eye from being pulled out. I also coat all new floats with nail varnish. I don't insist on it being a particular brand, just any clear varnish will do me. I re-varnish when re-making rigs.
 

Shotting

On my BGT1 margin rigs I shot with two No.6 shot or a string of No.10s just above the ten inch hooklength.  From there I can fine tune depending on the bites on the day.  False bites from small fish and liners can be negated by removing some weight, switching one or both No.6 shot for No.8s.  To make the rig more sensitive I just dot down with extra shot. 
 
As I have said in my Fishing The Pellet post on my deep rigs I have been experimenting with an odd looking shotting pattern that I think combines the benefits of a heavy rig with the finesse/sensitivity of a lighter one.  That is I have three No.10 shot four to six inches apart starting just above the hooklength.  I then add as many No.6 shot as needed but strung from above the No.10s to below the float.  I then trim to dot the float down with shot between the top No.6 and the float.  It seems to work for me.  I will use a bulk by moving the No.6s down to just above the top 10 if there is a strong tow.  
 
Hooks/Hooklengths
Simplifying my hooklengths was easy, though would frighten many.  I only use Reflo Power line and accept that the actual diameter is probably around 0.02 thicker than stated.  But I'm happy that doesn't compromise me getting bites.  It certainly reduces the number of lost fish through breakages. 

Kamasan B611 (spade) size 16 to ten inches of 0.13. This is the thickest line I will use on a spade end hook

Kamasan B611 (spade) size 18 to ten inches of 0.10. This is for silvers but mainly carp in Winter teamed with a mainline of 0.13.

B911 (eyed) size 16 on ten inches of 0.17 line. An eyed hook, large for its number, larger than the B611 16. I feel more confident with the thicker line on an eyed hook. 

In 2017 I started to fish hard pellet regularly with some success and so now carry some B911s with a band in a hair.  Size 16 to 0.17 and 18 to 0.13.  This has added a little complication to my simple approach but having simplified everything else I can cope with this.  I found using a Guru hooklength box a boon in organising this wider range of hooklengths.

Red Drennan Carp Maggot (spade) size 16.  I have been trying these hooks out as a replacement for the B611 16 after Bob Nudd gave me one to try in 2013.  Very impressed with them though in extreme circumstances I have had one or two open out on me.  Interestingly the one Bob gave me was a pre-tied hook to nylon and was half an inch longer than my home tied 10 inch hooklength.  If anyone is looking for a reliable hook to nylon for expander/maggot for carp I can recommend these.  I easily landed 100lb on the one hook during the day with Bob.  As of 2018 I rarely use these now as I have confidence in the B611.
  
The B911 16 is for bigger baits like 6mm expanders, paste and corn, the 18 for banded pellet where I feel a lighter approach will get me more bites.  The B611 for maggot but mostly 4/6mm pellet though I will fish corn on this as well. In the last three years I have expanded the range.  
 
But again, choice is simple and uncomplicated with the B611 16 being used most frequently closely followed by the B911 18. With all hooklengths the same length switching, if required, is simple. And I only very rarely put shot on the hooklength.
 
Elastics
Elastics are similarly simplified.   I can never predict what I am going to catch next and so I chose an elastic that will enable me to have control over the larger fish. I may bump a few small fish like skimmers but to be honest that doesn't bother me. I manage well with the elastics I use and see no reason to complicate matters with pullas. When first getting into commercial fishing properly I strted with elastics that were a little over the top, 18-20 in Summer and 16 in Winter, both solids.

Since writing the above paragraph I have changed slightly in that 16 solid is now (2021) my heaviest elastic so that and 14 the ones I use most frequently in Summer.  I have experimented with hollow elastics and just cannot seem to get comfortable with them in the warmer weather.  I have however found that either a 14 hollow or 12-14 Ultra Core from the Nick Gilbert float store works well for me on four topkits to which I have added pullers and use these in the Winter just about exclusively. 
 
Bait
I have concentrated over the last few years on fishing pellet and corn. On most commercials in Summer I find that little more than this is needed. I will carry some maggot and meat if I know the venue responds to it. I will always have maggot & pinkie with me in Winter. Sometimes the fish will only look at a single red maggot orpinkie. I believe that by limiting myself to a narrow bait range I have learned how to fish them effectively. Again, I can have no confusion or doubt as I just don't have the options on my side tray to worry about.  And of course these baits (pellet, corn, meat) are relatively cheap, particularly if you can get pellets in bulk. 
 
Summary
Does this simple approach work? For me - yes. The first year I did this I won/framed in more matches than I had ever done. In the period July 2013 to June 2014 I fished 47 matches and picked up money in 25.   Admittedly some were fished mainly on the feeder but I suspect that many anglers of my ability level could improve their catches by adopting this simplified approach. As I have said, I now believe that location, presentation and bait are more important and improving skills in these areas will have a greater impact than fine tuning rigs with 101 variations of float/line/hook.  But you have to do whatever gives you confidence. 
 
That I don't frame in more matches is not down to tackle but my mental ability to do the right thing, make the right changes on the day. Once I get the location, presentation and feeding/hookbait right I start catching.  I readily admit that I make wrong decisions and miss clues as to what changes I should make. It is always (well nearly so) in the last hour or on the drive home that I realise my mistake. I am also impatient and if something doesn't work quickly I change and don't settle until eventually I make a decision and stick with it.
 
On the separate subject of breaking down rigs. I do this if I have cut a rig down by an appreciable amount and I am not likely to be fishing the same venue again soon. I have some rigs stored separately for one or two venues that I will fish regularly, such as the one I will fish each Summer in a weekly evening series.  I don't waste the old line though. This is recycled either into hooklengths or shorter rigs.

 In the year 2013-14 I fished at least 25 different commercials/carp dominated lakes. I take confidence in that I can take out a rig and know that it will be the correct length and weight (4ft/0.2g, 7ft/0.5g or 10ft/1g ft) to suit the swim.   The 0.17 line and my choice of elastics will cope with carp to low doubles.

My simplified approach works for me. It does concentrate on pole fishing commercials though I apply the same idea to my canal fishing. I am an average club angler. I am probably too old to improve much but I still want to be competitive at the level at which I fish. For me, making things simpler has helped do that. I have certainly won more matches and framed more frequently since making the change.


*BGT is no longer trading, the owner having retired.  I stocked up on the floats I use while I could.  The point is though that I recommend finding a range of floats you are comfortable with and like me, make a simple range work for you.

My thanks to Bryan of BGT for allowing me to use the photos of his floats from his website.