Elastic Frustration
You know that frustrating moment when you are elasticating a pole or re-tying a connector you let go of the elastic and it springs back into the pole and you have to start again. I prevent this very simply. Pull out enough elastic so you can work comfortably and then tie a "cow hitch" knot around something like a disgorger or cocktail stick. The tension will tighten the knot as the disgorger rests against the pole tip.
The Cow Hitch knot
This will prevent the elastic from pinging back into the pole and allowing you to work on a length of elastic that is not under tension. You should recognise this as the same type of knot used to attach a rig to a Dacron or crows foot. When ready the knot slides off and the elastic straightens and retracts back into the pole.
Universal Leger Set-up
On all my leger rods I use a system that allows me to change from Method to straight lead to feeder in seconds.
I tie a four to six inch long loop in the end of the reel line. I then can thread on whatever type of ledger rig I want and keep it in place with a Drennan Method bead. These are like a stonfo but double ended so can be quickly removed from the line to change set-up and also allows quick change of hooklength.
It only takes seconds to switch from this
to this
To aid this quick change I do a bit of surgery on my Method/Pellet/Banjo feeders. With a sharp knife I cut a few millimetres off the end of the tail rubbers. This reveals a slightly bigger hole through which to thread the loop. If you are still having trouble then when you tie the loop leave a tag end of a couple of inches and you can thread this single thickness through a feeder easily and pull the loop and knot after it.
One other benefit is that the knot in the loop, while it will pass through the feeder or swivel, will snag a little and so aid self hooking.
One other benefit is that the knot in the loop, while it will pass through the feeder or swivel, will snag a little and so aid self hooking.
Loopy?
I used to not bother with making sure all my loops were the same size. I just tied them freehand, after all what difference could it make?
Then I discovered how to use the free Seymo loop sizer I had got with a magazine. I started to use the tool to make consistent sized loops and strangely there was a small but noticeable improvement in my results.
Although I was aware of backshotting I didn't use it much until I had its benefits for increasing the sensitivity of the float clearly demonstrated to me one day on a drain near Boston. We were practicing for the Div. 3 National It was a windless, clear blue sky Summer's day when everything on the water sparkled in the sunshine. I was using a canal rig without backshot for the small roach & skimmers in the drain. The line above the float could clearly be seen laying in the surface tension. I could also see the occasional dip that didn't pull the float under nor pull the line through the surface. It was only occasionally that the float disappeared. I decided I needed to backshot the rig to sink the line. After I did I started to catch more regularly as the previous dips translated into sail-aways. Since then I have added backshot most of the time. Even with carp I believe they can abandon a bite if they feel the resistance of the line in the surface tension.
When there is a breeze or strong wind the addition of backshot allows the line to sink out of the effects of the wind. You can also use a shot to act as a shock absorber on really windy days and the pole tip is being blown around.
I can fine tune the shotting, allowing for different weight baits or just adapting to how the fish are biting by incorporating some small shot into the backshotting pattern.
So, how do I backshot? My normal set-up is to have a No.11 just above the float, set level with the top of the bristle. I then have a No.9 below the pole tip. Between these I can have up to four No.12s. The 12s can be slid down to the No.11 or up to the No.9 to trim the shotting during the session. In high winds I will either add another No.9, 8 or even 6 below the pole tip. This heaveier shot can be slid closer to the float thus creating a V shape in the line between float and pole. This V will absorb some of the unintended pole tip movement.
Stonfo Frustration
Occasionally I find that the loop on the top of a rig can become tangled around the stonfo connector. A simple way to avoid this is to incorporate one inch of fine bored tubing above the No.9 backshot. Once the rig is attached to the connector just slide the tubing over the loop and that should prevent problems.
Play Time
I think we all know the popular image of an angler playing a fish - rod in the air, bent with the line cutting through the water. Thing is that in my opinion this is the wrong way to play a fish. Yes you need to lift the rod to net the fish but first you need to get the fish to a netting position. I'm not talking small fish here.
To me the best way to keep control over a fish is to keep the rod or pole low. When playing a decent fish I like to try and bury the tip as far under water as I can. Why?
Once a fish is hooked it senses it is in danger. Ignore the pain debate for now. But the fish knows something is trying to force it where it doesn't want to go. That place is the surface. A frightened fish will seek the sanctuary of the river or lake bed. Once there it feels safer and becomes compliant. So as long as it can hug the bottom it will then succumb to the pressure of rod or elastic. The moment you try and lift it towards the surface it will get scared again and try and dive for the deck and head out into the lake. At that point drop the tip underwater again and you will find the fish will accept the pressure and come towards you.
If you haven't experienced this then try it. It is particularly noticeable on the pole. Once you are down to the topkit lift and let the fish run then dip the tip and you will feel the pressure come off as the fish comes towards you and the elastic retracts. Its the same when playing a fish on a rod. If hooked at distance keep the rod low, at least level with the bank or even with the tip underwater. The fish will be reeled or pumped in easier. Again, when lifting to net and it runs then drop the rod to the side and feel the pressure come off. Repeat this a few times and the fish will tire and become docile for netting.
Finally on this subject. I haven't used a drag or clutch on a reel for at least forty years. Ivan Marks advocated backwinding. I copied him and have never done anything else since. By backwinding I give the fish line when I want to not when some unfeeling, mindless device decides to. I can control how much line a running fish takes and at what speed. Its never let me down so I guess I'll never change.
Twister
We all suffer line twist I'm sure no matter how careful we are when loading a reel. The way I eliminate this may look odd to dog walkers but it works.
I take a rod and the reel to a playing field (you could also do this on the bank) set the rod up as if fishing and open the bail arm. Grasping the end of the line I walk 50-100 yards away from the rod, drop the line and return to the rod. I then reel in using my free hand to tension the line. The grass combs the twist out of the line. For a badly twisted line you may need to repeat but I find one go is normally enough.
Smelly Flask?
We've all done it, left the flask with tea/coffee in it until the next week. One way of cleaning, steralising and freshening it up is to fill it with water and put in one or two denture tablets and leave a few hours (top off). This should return it to its former glory.
But of course I have a simple way of never having this problem. If I take a flask (Winter only) I just fill it with hot water and take along some Oxo cubes. Hot Oxo & a couple of sausage rolls on a cold day, super!
And if the flask gets a build up of limescale just fill with water and add some vinegar. Leave overnight & rinse.
I used to not bother with making sure all my loops were the same size. I just tied them freehand, after all what difference could it make?
Then I discovered how to use the free Seymo loop sizer I had got with a magazine. I started to use the tool to make consistent sized loops and strangely there was a small but noticeable improvement in my results.
The Seymo Looptyer
I'm not sure that the consistent sizing of loops actually made a direct difference, though I'm willing to concede the possibility it improved presentation. But I think it was a general attitude change. Instead of saying "That'll do" I was now taking a little more care in getting things spot on. Things like fine tuning shotting. Seems a fiddly job but sometimes, even on carp rigs, I now go as far as using a 13 Stotz to get it exactly as I want it. Tying hooklengths exactly the same length and plumbing up precisely are other examples of going the extra step towards perfection. I now believe its the angler that strives for this that will consistently outdo those that don't.
Recently I was told this theory is "tosh". I accept it may be. But, I know my fishing improved when I started to tie consistent, neat loops. All down to that or something else as well? You decide.
Recently I was told this theory is "tosh". I accept it may be. But, I know my fishing improved when I started to tie consistent, neat loops. All down to that or something else as well? You decide.
And if you haven't tried Stotz then you are missing what I believe to be one of the best angling innovations of recent years.
Backshotting
To clarify, I refer to any shot above the float as a backshot. I know some people split the definition between backshot and trimming shot. I can't be that complicated.
I have three reasons why I backshot most of my rigs.
- To increase sensitivity
- To aid float control, particularly in a wind
- To allow fine tuning of the shotting
When there is a breeze or strong wind the addition of backshot allows the line to sink out of the effects of the wind. You can also use a shot to act as a shock absorber on really windy days and the pole tip is being blown around.
I can fine tune the shotting, allowing for different weight baits or just adapting to how the fish are biting by incorporating some small shot into the backshotting pattern.
So, how do I backshot? My normal set-up is to have a No.11 just above the float, set level with the top of the bristle. I then have a No.9 below the pole tip. Between these I can have up to four No.12s. The 12s can be slid down to the No.11 or up to the No.9 to trim the shotting during the session. In high winds I will either add another No.9, 8 or even 6 below the pole tip. This heaveier shot can be slid closer to the float thus creating a V shape in the line between float and pole. This V will absorb some of the unintended pole tip movement.
Stonfo Frustration
Occasionally I find that the loop on the top of a rig can become tangled around the stonfo connector. A simple way to avoid this is to incorporate one inch of fine bored tubing above the No.9 backshot. Once the rig is attached to the connector just slide the tubing over the loop and that should prevent problems.
Play Time
I think we all know the popular image of an angler playing a fish - rod in the air, bent with the line cutting through the water. Thing is that in my opinion this is the wrong way to play a fish. Yes you need to lift the rod to net the fish but first you need to get the fish to a netting position. I'm not talking small fish here.
To me the best way to keep control over a fish is to keep the rod or pole low. When playing a decent fish I like to try and bury the tip as far under water as I can. Why?
Once a fish is hooked it senses it is in danger. Ignore the pain debate for now. But the fish knows something is trying to force it where it doesn't want to go. That place is the surface. A frightened fish will seek the sanctuary of the river or lake bed. Once there it feels safer and becomes compliant. So as long as it can hug the bottom it will then succumb to the pressure of rod or elastic. The moment you try and lift it towards the surface it will get scared again and try and dive for the deck and head out into the lake. At that point drop the tip underwater again and you will find the fish will accept the pressure and come towards you.
If you haven't experienced this then try it. It is particularly noticeable on the pole. Once you are down to the topkit lift and let the fish run then dip the tip and you will feel the pressure come off as the fish comes towards you and the elastic retracts. Its the same when playing a fish on a rod. If hooked at distance keep the rod low, at least level with the bank or even with the tip underwater. The fish will be reeled or pumped in easier. Again, when lifting to net and it runs then drop the rod to the side and feel the pressure come off. Repeat this a few times and the fish will tire and become docile for netting.
Finally on this subject. I haven't used a drag or clutch on a reel for at least forty years. Ivan Marks advocated backwinding. I copied him and have never done anything else since. By backwinding I give the fish line when I want to not when some unfeeling, mindless device decides to. I can control how much line a running fish takes and at what speed. Its never let me down so I guess I'll never change.
Twister
We all suffer line twist I'm sure no matter how careful we are when loading a reel. The way I eliminate this may look odd to dog walkers but it works.
I take a rod and the reel to a playing field (you could also do this on the bank) set the rod up as if fishing and open the bail arm. Grasping the end of the line I walk 50-100 yards away from the rod, drop the line and return to the rod. I then reel in using my free hand to tension the line. The grass combs the twist out of the line. For a badly twisted line you may need to repeat but I find one go is normally enough.
Smelly Flask?
We've all done it, left the flask with tea/coffee in it until the next week. One way of cleaning, steralising and freshening it up is to fill it with water and put in one or two denture tablets and leave a few hours (top off). This should return it to its former glory.
But of course I have a simple way of never having this problem. If I take a flask (Winter only) I just fill it with hot water and take along some Oxo cubes. Hot Oxo & a couple of sausage rolls on a cold day, super!
And if the flask gets a build up of limescale just fill with water and add some vinegar. Leave overnight & rinse.
