Dotting Down

One of the more common mistakes I see anglers making is not shotting their floats low enough in the water. While I am not advocating dotting a float down to a pimple on every occasion I am talking about having the right amount of float tip showing and not the tip plus half the body, or two inches of waggler. The “right” amount is an individual choice given what is happening on any given day but I am willing to bet that many anglers would catch more by adding a shot or two and reacting to every disappearance.

I probably take things to extremes at times using size 13 shot and occasionally bristle grease (lip salve actually), even on carp rigs, to get the “perfect” amount of bristle showing. There are times though when I will take shot off in order to have more bristle above the water.  But my starting point is always to get the float as low as I can.  Indeed sometimes the weight of the bait is enough to sink the float.

Getting the float "dotted down" is a starting point.  That may not be to a pimple.  I will start a session getting the float as low in the water as I am comfortable with.  As the day progresses I may decide to take some shot off.  One reason, amongst many, may be that I actually want the bristle to catch any wind and move the float.  Or I may dot down to get the float out of the wind.  Dragging bottom or suspending a heavy bait are other reasons for having more float showing.  But these are conscious decisions made for an angling reason.  Not because "that will do".

I fully understand that there are those with poor eyesight for whom dotting down too far would make the float invisible. But not everyone I see failing to shot the float lower in the water can have poor eyes.  I also accept that for many just being out fishing is good enough.  Catching is a bonus.  But I go fishing to catch fish.  I want as much action, in a match or on a pleasure session, as I can create.  Are the people I see really completely satisfied fishing and not catching? 

An obvious question about dotting a float down is “ Why is this important?”.  It has been argued that the resistance a fish feels when sinking 10mm of a 2mm diameter bristle cannot be much more than sinking just 5mm. I would agree. The resistance, while there may be some, is not my main reason for shotting floats lower in the water. For me it is all about spotting bites.

Let us say you have 15mm of bristle showing and the float sinks by 3mm. The difference is negligible and possibly not seen as a bite at all. But with 3mm showing and the float sinks by three there is no doubt that you would see that and should react. Even carp, although aggressive feeders, can give very delicate bites, particularly in Winter.  Bites when it is cold are at a premium and thus you should be shotting the float so as not to miss any.  And I would rather strike a few times at false bites than miss the actual bite when it happens.  Also you are much more likely to react when the float disappears than when it just dips marginally.

On the subject of resistance felt by the fish I have seen bites fail to develop when the fish felt the resistance of trying to pull line above the float through the surface tension. Hence the reason I sink the line with backshot, but that is the subject of a separate post.  So I don't think resistance can be totally ignored, particularly so for thick tipped wagglers.

There is a chance that the resistance shown by trying to sink too much pole float bristle is also a reason for the fish to reject the bait. I don't know but why take the risk when with a little bit of fine tuning we can eliminate it. Certainly if we talk in terms of straight or even insert wagglers the resistance felt in trying to sink two inches of float is considerable – to a fish.

I also hear people say that with more float showing they can read bites.  This comment baffles me. Either it is a bite or not.  The float has dipped or it hasn't.  If it has then I strike.  The only real difference I ever notice is that line bites tend to be different to a proper bite.  Often I know I have foulhooked a fish just from the bite that I still instinctively reacted to when perhaps I shouldn't.  The float's disappearance is all I want to read.  When it does I react.

I think many anglers are frightened of sinking the float too far in case they cannot then see it and more importantly, not see a bite. My answer to that is to experiment, see how far you can sink the float and still see it, and importantly, see when it isn't there. In this context a thicker bristle can normally be set much lower in the water than a thinner one and still be seen. So if you are having difficulty or indeed have poor eyesight then try using a thicker bristled float and get that as low in the water as you can.

I also think that some anglers get close to shotting the float "perfectly" then can't be bothered to take the time, put in the effort or use the small shot required to finish the job.  I accept that for some with limited dexterity or poor sight using size 11, 12 and 13 shot is difficult.   But if you can then I strongly recommend taking the time and making the effort.  It is these fine margins that make some anglers stand out from the rest of us.  I find the cube shaped Stotz type weights much easier to apply to the line than traditional round shot.

Another thing to consider for anyone struggling to see a float is whether you are fishing too far out. People that fish with me regularly know that I don't, as a rule, fish the pole past 10-11m. I often joke that if I want to fish longer then I get the leger rod out. My eyesight is fine (I have an excellent optician), it is just that I have proved to myself over time that I don't need to wield 13m+ of pole in order to catch an acceptable number of fish. And I am talking about both commercials and canals.

People will ask “What about poor conditions?”. My answer is to still get the float as low in the water as possible. The closer the rig is to neutral buoyancy the less it will be affected by any chop on the water. A well shotted float will ride through the peaks and troughs unlike an undershotted one that will bounce up and down. In these conditions I find it better to use a much heavier float. That way the whole rig will stay more stable. It also helps if you use as long a bristle as possible on pole floats. Getting the body deeper in the water will reduce the surface's effect. It is worth investing in a few “windbeater” type floats such as the DT Windbeaters* so as to get the body of the float below the wave base and thus into more stable water. They may not see much use but well worth having for those really poor days.

 

If you want to understand why then research “Wave Base”. But simply on most lakes with wind created waves water will only be rising and falling in the top few inches. Below that it will be still. The depth of the wave base is roughly half the wavelength. So if the float body is below the wave base it will be stable.

 

 

 

DT Windbeaters. 

May look odd but this type of float, dotted down in a high wind/choppy surface, works well.

I'm sure everyone is familiar with the diagrams that are shown in magazines of shotting patterns. I get slightly annoyed that it is made to look so simple. Not that the pattern is wrong but that there is never any mention of fine tuning or trimming the shotting to get the float set as the angler wants. It is impossible that the precise shotting pattern demonstrated makes the float sit perfectly. In my experience even a float set perfectly today will require some tinkering the next time the rig is used. I am, in the main, talking pole floats with relatively fine bristles.

The way I shot my floats is to get the pattern of shot I want at the business end, towards the hooklength. As I use a limited range of floats I do know precisely what shot to add when making the rig so that the float, straight out of the box, will sit almost perfectly but probably needing a little extra shot added for me to be happy. These extra shot are normally added just below the float. This is for three reasons. The first is that they can be used as a tell-tale against the float moving. The second is that they will not interfere with the shotting pattern lower down the line and third they are easy to identify should I want to remove them later.

With stick float fishing it can pay to almost or actually overshot the float.  That way you have to hold it back to prevent it sinking.  This slows the bait right down and can be a devastating method on the right day. Then, if you are dragging line on the bottom you may need the float undershotted.

When fishing a waggler on a river and dragging bottom you will need more float showing to prevent the float from constantly being dragged under.  But you can still shot the float so that it just manages to keep progressing through the swim but show delicate bites.   

*  I have no commercial connection with DT Floats.  I know Dean but that is as far as my association goes.  I thank Dean for allowing me to use the picture from his website http://www.dt-floats.co.uk

Backshotting Pole Rigs

What Are Backshot?

I call any shot placed on the line between float and pole tip “backshot”. Some will differentiate between shot that do different functions, more about which I will explain later, and refer to trimming shot in addition to backshot. I prefer to keep things simple. So all shot above the float are, to me, backshot.

 

Background

I now backshot all my pole rigs. Doesn't matter if they are for carp or silvers, deep swims or shallow margins. I feel the benefits mean I catch more fish.

As I see it there are three main reasons for backshotting your rigs. First is that the line can be sunk and remain under the surface thus reducing any effects a wind may have on the float and rig. This means the rig is doing what you want, not what the wind wants to do to it. You have much better control of the float and rig

Second, bites, particularly from silvers such as canal roach, can be improved by the line above the float not sitting on the surface tension. This was demonstrated to me several years ago when fishing a Lincolnshire drain for small roach on a still, bright sunshine Summer's day. My float had a fine bristle, dotted down but with no backshot the line was sitting clearly on the surface. I could see the bristle dipping slightly but not going under as a "proper" bite. I decided to sink the line with a backshot and suddenly what had been tentative dips of the float now became positive disappearances and I started to catch much quicker. The fish could obviously feel the pressure required for them to not only sink the float but also break the line through the surface tension and rejected the bait. That marked the time I started to backshot all my rigs.

Backshotting can also help to speed up the time between the float disappearing and you hitting the bite. More of that later as I show you the various uses.

Basic Set-up

When making up rigs, be they silvers or carp, I incorporate two shot above the float. These are a No.11 and a No.9. The 11 is closest to the float, the 9 towards the pole tip.  Once I have the rig set at the correct depth I will slide the No.11 down so that it sits at a point that is the same distance from the eye as the tip of the float. This shot will, most of the time, register on the float though I have found not as much as the same shot being placed under the float. The difference is minimal but I am convinced real.

The No.9 will sit anywhere from right under the pole tip to a couple of inches above the No.11 and this will be dictated by the weather conditions and how the fish are biting on any given day. Its one of those variables that you cannot make a definitive ruling on. But at no time will I allow the No.9 to register on the float as it will make it sink.

Why No.11 and 9?  I feel the No.11 is a good compromise in that it will not unbalance the float but is heavy enough to keep the line sunk.  The No.9 is just a personal choice thing and has no logic, its just what I use.  It could just as well be a No.8 though I think a No.10 would be too small.  If conditions are poor I may substitute a No.8 for or add it to the No.9.  

Most of the time the No.9 will be held just below the water surface, particularly as the rig settles in the water. The No.9 will sink the line below the pole tip and then encourage the No.11 and line closest to the float to do the same. The following picture shows what I mean

 

 

 

You can see that the No.11 is hanging from the float and thus will contribute to the shotting load while the No.9 is hanging from the pole tip and having no effect on the float.

If bites are being missed because the angler thinks they are striking too late then the No.9 can be suspended above the float and if necessary moved closer so as to tighten the line between pole and float as per the following picture.

 

 

Note the slack line between the two shot so the No.11 is still adding to the float's loading.  We can though tighten the line to the float even more.  Useful if fishing for species like F1 carp.

 

 

Sliding the No.11 up to sit just below the No.9 increases the weight of this bulk and that can be helpful in a light breeze by keeping the line hanging as straight down as possible.  In stronger winds more shot can be added such as a No.8.  This is placed just above the No.9 so if later it is not needed it can be slid up to the pole tip. 

Ideally you want the bulk and float bristle close together so you can watch both at the same time.  The bristle to spot bites and the bulk to ensure you are keeping the line as tight as possible without pulling the float out of the water. 

By sliding the No.11 up the line it will no longer be registering on the float and shot may need to be added under the float to compensate.

If it is difficult to see the 9 & 11 bulk then adding a No.8 will help by increasing the size of the bulk.  Painting the shot with TippEx or similar can also aid visibility.

 

A variation of this set-up is to use three No.8 shot strung out from pole to float.  The general idea is the same, to tighten the line between the two.

 

Fine Adjustments 

I tend to be ultra demanding or critical about the amount of bristle showing above the water.  Sometimes either conditions change during the day or different baits will make a float settle to a different level.  One way of  getting the float sitting as I want is to use some very small shot, typically No.12 or 13 between the two backshot.  These can be slid up or down the line depending on whether the float needs more or less weight.  

 

In the picture you will see four No.12 shot have been incorporated into the backshotting pattern.  Some will refer to these as trimming shot.

 

You can slide as many or as few up/down the line as the situation demands.

 

The original principle is still the same that the shot close to the float will register on it while those under the pole tip will not.

 

These smaller shot can also be used to shot very fine bristles where, for example, a No.12 is too much and a No.13 too little when added below the float.  Adding a No12 as extra backshot close to the float seems to register slightly less than when on the line below the float. 

 

Windy!

Backshotting, as I have said can be used to control the float in a breeze but what happens when we are trying to fish in a high wind?  A No.9, even a No.8 is not going to help at times.  In poor conditions don't be afraid to increase the weight by using a No.6 or even larger.

 

 

You will see that the No.11 has been dispensed with and the large shot replaces the No.9.  What this does is create a shock absorber between pole and float.  If the pole gets blown around then instead of jerking the float the No.6 will rise and fall in the water and dampen some of the extreme movement.  It may even help to move the shot closer to the pole tip and place the tip underwater.  Experiment in poor conditions to see what works best for you on the day given the poor conditions. 

 

This big shot will probably work best with more line than normal between pole and float.  Don't be afraid to have three even four foot of line above the float.  Sacrificing the speed of transferring the strike to the float and then hook will be offset by getting more bites in the first place.