Backshotting Pole Rigs

What Are Backshot?

I call any shot placed on the line between float and pole tip “backshot”. Some will differentiate between shot that do different functions, more about which I will explain later, and refer to trimming shot in addition to backshot. I prefer to keep things simple. So all shot above the float are, to me, backshot.

 

Background

I now backshot all my pole rigs. Doesn't matter if they are for carp or silvers, deep swims or shallow margins. I feel the benefits mean I catch more fish.

As I see it there are three main reasons for backshotting your rigs. First is that the line can be sunk and remain under the surface thus reducing any effects a wind may have on the float and rig. This means the rig is doing what you want, not what the wind wants to do to it. You have much better control of the float and rig

Second, bites, particularly from silvers such as canal roach, can be improved by the line above the float not sitting on the surface tension. This was demonstrated to me several years ago when fishing a Lincolnshire drain for small roach on a still, bright sunshine Summer's day. My float had a fine bristle, dotted down but with no backshot the line was sitting clearly on the surface. I could see the bristle dipping slightly but not going under as a "proper" bite. I decided to sink the line with a backshot and suddenly what had been tentative dips of the float now became positive disappearances and I started to catch much quicker. The fish could obviously feel the pressure required for them to not only sink the float but also break the line through the surface tension and rejected the bait. That marked the time I started to backshot all my rigs.

Backshotting can also help to speed up the time between the float disappearing and you hitting the bite. More of that later as I show you the various uses.

Basic Set-up

When making up rigs, be they silvers or carp, I incorporate two shot above the float. These are a No.11 and a No.9. The 11 is closest to the float, the 9 towards the pole tip.  Once I have the rig set at the correct depth I will slide the No.11 down so that it sits at a point that is the same distance from the eye as the tip of the float. This shot will, most of the time, register on the float though I have found not as much as the same shot being placed under the float. The difference is minimal but I am convinced real.

The No.9 will sit anywhere from right under the pole tip to a couple of inches above the No.11 and this will be dictated by the weather conditions and how the fish are biting on any given day. Its one of those variables that you cannot make a definitive ruling on. But at no time will I allow the No.9 to register on the float as it will make it sink.

Why No.11 and 9?  I feel the No.11 is a good compromise in that it will not unbalance the float but is heavy enough to keep the line sunk.  The No.9 is just a personal choice thing and has no logic, its just what I use.  It could just as well be a No.8 though I think a No.10 would be too small.  If conditions are poor I may substitute a No.8 for or add it to the No.9.  

Most of the time the No.9 will be held just below the water surface, particularly as the rig settles in the water. The No.9 will sink the line below the pole tip and then encourage the No.11 and line closest to the float to do the same. The following picture shows what I mean

 

 

 

You can see that the No.11 is hanging from the float and thus will contribute to the shotting load while the No.9 is hanging from the pole tip and having no effect on the float.

If bites are being missed because the angler thinks they are striking too late then the No.9 can be suspended above the float and if necessary moved closer so as to tighten the line between pole and float as per the following picture.

 

 

Note the slack line between the two shot so the No.11 is still adding to the float's loading.  We can though tighten the line to the float even more.  Useful if fishing for species like F1 carp.

 

 

Sliding the No.11 up to sit just below the No.9 increases the weight of this bulk and that can be helpful in a light breeze by keeping the line hanging as straight down as possible.  In stronger winds more shot can be added such as a No.8.  This is placed just above the No.9 so if later it is not needed it can be slid up to the pole tip. 

Ideally you want the bulk and float bristle close together so you can watch both at the same time.  The bristle to spot bites and the bulk to ensure you are keeping the line as tight as possible without pulling the float out of the water. 

By sliding the No.11 up the line it will no longer be registering on the float and shot may need to be added under the float to compensate.

If it is difficult to see the 9 & 11 bulk then adding a No.8 will help by increasing the size of the bulk.  Painting the shot with TippEx or similar can also aid visibility.

 

A variation of this set-up is to use three No.8 shot strung out from pole to float.  The general idea is the same, to tighten the line between the two.

 

Fine Adjustments 

I tend to be ultra demanding or critical about the amount of bristle showing above the water.  Sometimes either conditions change during the day or different baits will make a float settle to a different level.  One way of  getting the float sitting as I want is to use some very small shot, typically No.12 or 13 between the two backshot.  These can be slid up or down the line depending on whether the float needs more or less weight.  

 

In the picture you will see four No.12 shot have been incorporated into the backshotting pattern.  Some will refer to these as trimming shot.

 

You can slide as many or as few up/down the line as the situation demands.

 

The original principle is still the same that the shot close to the float will register on it while those under the pole tip will not.

 

These smaller shot can also be used to shot very fine bristles where, for example, a No.12 is too much and a No.13 too little when added below the float.  Adding a No12 as extra backshot close to the float seems to register slightly less than when on the line below the float. 

 

Windy!

Backshotting, as I have said can be used to control the float in a breeze but what happens when we are trying to fish in a high wind?  A No.9, even a No.8 is not going to help at times.  In poor conditions don't be afraid to increase the weight by using a No.6 or even larger.

 

 

You will see that the No.11 has been dispensed with and the large shot replaces the No.9.  What this does is create a shock absorber between pole and float.  If the pole gets blown around then instead of jerking the float the No.6 will rise and fall in the water and dampen some of the extreme movement.  It may even help to move the shot closer to the pole tip and place the tip underwater.  Experiment in poor conditions to see what works best for you on the day given the poor conditions. 

 

This big shot will probably work best with more line than normal between pole and float.  Don't be afraid to have three even four foot of line above the float.  Sacrificing the speed of transferring the strike to the float and then hook will be offset by getting more bites in the first place.