Monday, 31 October 2016

Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 7 – Lets Get Fishing


First up let me say that I am of the opinion that you cannot fish a pole effectively from a chair. Perhaps because I have only ever used a basket or seat box I just think anyone using a pole while sitting in a chair looks awkward.

Getting Comfortable
If you are going to fish the pole well then like most methods of fishing you have to be comfortable and have everything to hand.

The accepted wisdom is that your seatbox and footplate if you have one should be set at a height that causes your knees to be at a ninety degree angle when sitting straight. I actually prefer to have my box slightly higher than that so my knees are slightly more than ninety degrees.

The following picture was taken in France.  I used to take an old box that fit in the car better than my usual one.

 
 
 
This box has no legs but is an ideal height for me. 
Note the vertical upper right arm. 
Upright back, relaxed position and
not having to hold the pole with the left hand. 
 
 

This picture is my usual set-up.  Being right handed the pole is on my right, side tray, topkits and landing net left.   



Everything I should need is to hand or in the box.
 


Topkits
I normally sort out my topkits and get them set on the roost before setting up the pole. The less I need to walk about after setting up the pole the less likely I am to trip over it, tread on it or otherwise cause damage.

Assembling the Pole
Once you have box and side tray set then we need to set up the pole roller(s). Do this before you assemble the pole. Position the rollers in approximately the correct position. To start with have the front roller roughly three yards behind you and the rear one maybe five yards further back.

One of the first things to decide is what length of pole you are going to use. I can't tell you as obviously every venue, every day may be different. But as I said in an earlier section, do not try and fish the pole too long to start with. On a commercial venue topkit plus three sections or at the bottom of the margin slope should see you catch fish and at a length that is comfortable to start. Similarly on canals, there may be no need to reach the far bank at first. Rivers are a law unto themselves and you will need to adapt to the one you are fishing. But even on rivers it is often not necessary to go long to catch.

Take the pole and lay the sections you are going to use where you can reach them easily while on your box. I either lay them on the carryall that sits behind me or on the nearest roller.  And trust me it is safer to assemble the pole while sitting.  You can assemble the pole in one of two ways. You can take the number four section then add the five, six and seven etc. while extending the pole over the water. Then when complete ship back onto the rollers. Alternatively work from the butt end and add the sections in reverse order while pushing the pole back on the rollers. I have no favourite and adopt whichever method seems right given the day and the bank I am on, or perhaps how I am feeling.

Never try and lift the length of pole from the thin end.  You will break a section.  Manoeuver the pole with most of its weight on the roller or with the butt on the ground. 

At the end of the day I put the pole away first, normally without having to get off my box.  Again this reduces the chance of accidents.

Setting The Rollers
The following film shows how your rollers should be positioned for achieving a smooth process of shipping in and out. The one one thing we want to avoid is any jerky or sudden movements. This can lead to spilled bait, tangled rigs and in extreme cases a broken section.


 

Obviously you may have to reach a compromise regarding the exact position of the rollers if you are going to be fishing the pole at different lengths during the day. If that is the case then I would have them closer to you than perfect for the longest length. And if the difference in lengths is going to be great, say five metres and sixteen metres then I would strongly recommend getting a third roller.
 
But as this is a beginner's guide I will assume for now that you will be using a shorter pole and probably not complicating matters by fishing multiple lengths at first.

If using a longer pole than the space behind allows for the whole thing to be shipped back in one length you will have to break the pole down at least twice when shipping in. 

I will also mention that the pole I was using in the video is the Maver Abyss X.  In section two of this guide I said that you don't have to spend big to start pole fishing.  This pole cost me less than £50.  It was the only pole I used that day and it accounted for around 50lb of fish ranging from roach to 8lb carp, skimmers and crucians. 

Setting Up The Rig
By now hopefully you will be sitting on your box with a topkit or two beside you and a pole sitting within easy reach on its rollers. Now is the time to attach a chosen rig to your topkit, add a hooklength and then attach a plummet.
 
To me a plummet is THE most essential tool in the pole angler's box after the pole and rigs themselves. To try and fish a pole without a plummet is foolish. You have wasted your money buying a pole if you have not spent the pennies required to get a plummet or two.

To me the starting point for the day is always to plumb up at full depth with a small amount of float showing with the plummet on the bottom.  With that depth known you can then deviate from that. 
 
Hopefully you will know the approximate depth of the water you are fishing and have chosen a rig that is sufficiently long. Swing the plummet out and mount the topkit on the pole. When doing this always hold the topkit steady and insert the number four section of the pole into the kit. Push it home firmly but not jammed on tight. The reason for keeping the topkit steady and manoeuvring the pole is that moving the topkit around can induce tangles.
 
Ship the pole out to your desired length or to the spot you want to target. Lower the rig in vertically and note where the float is when the plummet is on the bottom. Lift and lower the rig two or three times so you get a feel for the depth and how far out from dead depth the float is. Ship in and adjust the float as required and ship out and try again. 

Take your time over this process, it can and will have an impact on your whole day's fishing. Get it right at the start and you will reap the rewards later.  Ideally I will look to have the whole bristle showing when the plummet is on the bottom.  Some advocate the bristle and body should be visible.  The important thing is that you know that you have the bait on the bottom once the float has been shotted correctly and settled.

Once you are happy with the amount of float showing then try plumbing up left, right, further and nearer to establish in your mind's eye what the profile of the swim is like. You may find a slope, a drop off or even a snag you can't see. I find canals can be a nightmare sometimes with sunken branches and the like.  You may also want to find a second or even third spot where the depth is the same so that you can feed and fish these different spots during the day as bites may slow on your original one. My aim is that these other spots should be at least two yards away from the first.

Once you have settled on a spot then note two things.  Line the spot up with a far bank marker, or as I do sometimes a reflection of the far bank.  Also note the length of pole.  You don't have to fish with the pole at just the full length of a particular section.  If necessary you can hold the pole with any amount of the final section behind your elbow.  If I do this I will mark the pole with TippEx or tape at the point where my right thumb rests.  On some pole sections I have some tape half way along permanently and this too can be used to set a length.  I just have to remember where the tape is in relation to my right hand or arm.

You should now have a rig with the float set so that the hook is just on the bottom with the bristle on the surface. Now it is time to cut the rig down to the length you are going to fish with.

Beginners often ask how much line should be between pole and float. Like other aspects of fishing, there is no hard and fast rule. The venue (including venue rules), conditions and actual spot being fished will have an impact on this decision. Generally though if we are talking a lake then a good starting point is to have twelve to fifteen inches of line above the float.  On a river possibly more and less on a canal.
 
On a day with a strong wind blowing you will probably want more line, fishing the margins close in you may have as little as four inches. If you plan to fish an appreciable amount overdepth then allow for this when reducing the length of the rig.

I would now remove the plummet and get my shotting correct. Remember that shotting the rig at home I advised leaving a little more float showing than you will have ultimately when fishing. Now is the time to add shot until you have the amount of bristle showing that is comfortable to see but small enough to detect bites.

At this time I would also mark the topkit with the depth. We do this so that if we move the float by design or accident during the day we can return to this dead depth point if we wish. The hook is hooked to the bottom of the topkit and the rig will now sit alongside it with a small amount of elastic stretched out of the tip. The elastic will be stretching the line by a couple of inches so marking the depth with the rig under tension will give us a false reading. Grasp the connector and pull a little more elastic from the pole to the point where the rig is still alongside the topkit but not under tension. You should see the float creep towards the butt as you do this. Using a marker such as TippEx, Snopake or a chinagraph pencil mark the point on the topkit where the tip of the bristle sits. You now have a reference point for the rest of the day. This can also be transferred to other topkits without the need to plumb up each rig separately if you wish by holding the kits alongside and marking at the same point.

If you wish to fish, say six inches, overdepth then slide the float up the line six inches and re-trim the length of line above if required.

Hopefully now we have a rig that is at the correct depth, length, correctly shotted and so we are ready to fish.

Feeding
I have written a blog on feeding and could probably write a book and still not be able to tell people exactly how, what, where, when to feed. Probably the most important skill in fishing is feeding. Fishing the pole to me is about accuracy and finesse, and so it is with feeding with a pole. Feeding with a pole can be as precise as you wish using a pole cup or tosspot. Amounts and position can be controlled to the ultimate degree.  And of course this is where noting a far bank marker and length of pole are important.

Apart from the obvious of feeding with a pot on the pole you can also feed by hand and with a catapult. Each method will have its day. What you decide to do is up to you. But, before feeding you really need to understand what it is you are trying to achieve with the method of feeding, the bait you are feeding and the amount.

I tend to feed most often with a pot mounted on the pole be it a cupping kit or tosspot. I just feel that dropping the bait on the same, small spot concentrates the fish where I want them. But there are days when the catapult or by hand come into play.

I will nearly always feed a pole line before fishing it. Sometimes straight after feeding and on other days I may put a leger out for a few minutes to let the fish find and settle on the feed.

Hopefully this initial feed will lead to a few fish and then the question comes of when, and how much, to re-feed. I have to dodge the question and say it really is up to you. Sometimes when fishing a commercial lake for example it may be prudent to take a few fish before re-feeding, but other days may see you needing to feed after every fish. These are skills not restricted to pole fishing and so I will leave the subject there.

One tip for emptying a tosspot of bait like pellets that may have been tamped down.  I have found that if you sink the pot and wait a few seconds for it to fill with water then turn it over the contents come out with little encouragement. There is a demonstration in the following video.
 
Getting The Rig In The Water
OK, now it really is time to get fishing. We have plumbed up, shotted our float, fed the swim and put bait on the hook. Swing the baited rig out into the water so that the rig lands in a line. Dropping it in in a heap will cause tangles. Mount the topkit on the pole and ship out and get comfortable.

When introducing the rig to the spot you are going to fish you have a couple of options on how to do this. You can lay the rig out so it is in a straight line from the pole tip and let it swing down like a pendulum so the float eventually settles. You can hold the pole rigid so the float gradually settles in the one spot or you can let the float drift in the direction the rig was laid in until it cocks and settles down.

You have the option to lay the rig out in any direction you please. Left, right, away from you or towards you. And it may sound illogical but the direction may just affect whether you get a bite or at least how quickly a bite may materialise. If the water is moving you can lay out with the flow or against, if there is a slope you may wish to have the rig settle so it drags the hooklength up the slope. All I can advise is to experiment and see if one method outscores another.

Similarly you can lower the rig in vertically. You hold the rig out of the water over your chosen spot then slowly lower so that the bait enters the water followed by the rest of the rig. Again, doing this can produce bites that the pendulum method may not induce. There is no way of telling which is correct on the day.

You can also combine the two techniques.  Lay the rig out but holed the float out of the water by a few inches in line with your far bank marker.  After a few seconds the rig will have settled below the float and now you can lower the float and let the bait have as natural a fall as possible for those last few inches.  This can produce a bite immediately so always be ready to strike.
 
What Next
If you have added backshot then you need to encourage the line between the tip and float to sink. You may have to hold the pole tip to one side of the float and let the heavier shot sink taking the line and lighter shot under. You can then hold the pole wherever is comfortable waiting for the bite.  This could be left or right of the float, upstream or down if on a river. You can hold the float still or let it move with the flow or tow. As you get used to pole fishing you will discover what is right for youb and the fish on the day.

Handling the Pole and Using a Catapult
The following video shows some of the things I have been talking about.  It runs for around eight minutes.

 

Bite!
The float disappears! Glory-be our first bite on the pole. Smartly lift the pole or move it sideways away from the float to set the hook. This movement does not have to be violent. Even with five metres of pole in hand a small movement at your end will result in a large movement at the pole tip.
 
I find that the shorter the line between pole and float the less violently I strike.
 
There is certainly no need to have the whole rig come flying out of the water if you don't hook the fish. You should be aiming to have the float come out of the water and not much more of the rig.

If you are fishing under overhanging vegetation then you will have to strike sideways or even by pulling the pole towards you. 
 
Playtime
Having hooked the fish there is no need to rush anything. Take your time and let the elastic do its job. First thing to do is assess the size of the fish. If small and using light elastic you can start to ship backwards allowing the elastic to take care of playing the fish and bringing it to within swinging or netting distance. Once shipped back to the point where you can grasp the butt of the toopkit remove it, again by removing the pole form the kit not the other way round. You can now net the fish or swing it to hand if small enough.
 
Larger fish will require some playing.
 
As long as you have chosen the right strength of line and appropriate elastic you should have no problem with larger fish. Let the elastic do its work. If you are used to playing a fish on rod & line then the pole is not much different. Side strain is still your friend in trying to turn a larger fish. But instead of reeling in we will be shipping the pole back and eventually grasping the topkit.
 
This is when having correctly positioned pole rollers helps. You should be able to ship back and land on the front roller without having to look at it. Then gradually ship back until you can grip the butt of the topkit. As with mounting the kit, remove the pole from the kit, not the kit from the pole. And never, no matter what, point the pole at the fish. A large fish will pull the topkit or even more sections from the pole. And I have seen people have to go swimming to retrieve sections of pole lost in this fashion. With a bend in the pole the sections will lock in place.
 
With a fish that is determined to run try dipping the pole tip underwater, even by a couple of feet. This technique is very effective when playing fish on the topkit. I believe that the fish is comfortable on the bottom and as long as you are not trying to pull it up in the water it will succumb to the elastic's pressure. As the fish nears you then raise the topkit and if necessary let the fish run again and bury the tip under the surface again. Repeat this a few times and the fish will tire and be ready to net.

There is no need to rush a fish to the net. Ignore what you have seen experienced pole anglers do and take your time.

I will also mention that you don't just lock your arm and wrist solidly when playing fish.  I advocate what I call a soft wrist and elbow.  Perhaps this goes back to my days of fishing rod & line.  If I am playing a fish, and it need not be large, I will use the wrist and elbow to let the pole tip follow a lunging fish.  This may mean that no more elastic is taken from the pole but the tip just travels a with the fish and towards the surface.  This is one way I manage to land small fish on heavy elastics.  Obviously if a larger fish is determined to run then I will hold steady and let the elastic do its work and use the technique I described above of burying the tip underwater. 
 
Lift & Drop or Leave Alone
Pole anglers tend to fall into two camps. Those that will lift a couple of feet and lower the rig back in if they have not had a bite after a few minutes and those that believe the bait should be left for the fish to find. Where you end up in this debate will depend on your own thoughts and experience.
 
Final Thoughts
I think I have just about completed my mission. Just a couple of things that didn't seem to fit elsewhere.
 
Lubricating elastic – I just get water into the topkit and let that do the lubricating. You can use a proprietary lubricant or diluted hair conditioner. But I believe these just wash out on a busy day.

Changing Elastic - Check your elastic for wear regularly.  You will find that eventually the elastic at the tip of the pole will start to wear.  There is no point in risking lost fish for a couple of pounds worth of elastic.  So when you notice the elastic deteriorating either change the whole thing or unwind the spare elastic you may have stored on the winder bung and re-fit the connector on a sound piece of elastic.
 
Pole care – Take care of your pole. It should be washed inside and out with warm, soapy water every now and again. Take care not to get grit or dirt in the joints. Apart from that don't jerk it around, sudden shocks will break sections. And don't store it wet. It won't harm the pole but it will be unpleasant next time you come to use it.
 
And that I think is it. Enjoy your pole fishing and if you have any questions myself and the other folks on maggotdrowning.com will be happy to supply answers. But be prepared for a range of opinions.

I will leave you with one of my favourite catch shots

 
 
 
Remember fishing should be fun.  Tight lines and stretched elastic.

Thursday, 27 October 2016

Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 6 – Shotting The Rig

Let me start by explaining that what follows assumes that most of the time no shot is being put on the hooklength. I know that many do put shot on the hooklength, I don't. Reason being that it is quicker to change hooklengths if you don't have to add shot as well. And in match fishing even a couple of wasted minutes can be crucial.

In the following descriptions the final shot, that closest to the hook, will nearly always be sitting touching the knot that joins the hooklength to the rig. If you are using a loop to loop connection then it will sit just above the loop in the main line.
 
Understanding Underwater
When talking of shotting patterns I think it worth considering what happens underwater and out of sight.
 
In absolutely calm conditions on a stillwater the rig should hang vertically under the float. But many situations arise that means this isn't the case. We could be fishing a river, a lake affected by surface skim or undertow, a canal that is moving due to an overshot or opening lock gates.
 
What many people fail to understand is that water, even in a fast flowing river, does not move at the same speed from surface to bottom. The effect of drag imparted by the lake, canal or river bed means the lower layers of water move slower than the surface. Or, if there is an upstream wind, the surface may give the appearance of moving slowly if at all compared to the water a few inches down. On a lake a wind may create an undertow where the main body of the water will be moving in the opposite direction to the surface being blown by the wind.
 
Scientists have discovered that the average flow rate of a river is located at seven tenths of the depth. So on a river ten foot deep the average flow will be seven foot below the surface. For us as anglers this means we have to combat the tow for most of the depth in order to present the bait in a natural fashion on the bottom when the water is moving. Within a few inches of the bottom the water will be moving very slowly if at all.
 
With this in mind you can see, in part, why we end up with varying shotting patterns and different float loadings for similar depths.
 
Droppers
This is the name given to the final few shot, normally spaced out, closest to the hooklength. The number and size of the droppers will depend on conditions and personal choice. The same for spacings. There is no one correct answer and really you have to experiment to find what you think works for you, the venue, the conditions, the species and even the bristle of the float we have chosen.

One piece of advice I was given and I can understand is that dropper shot, or the last dropper should register on the float. So in general, the thicker the bristle the heavier should be the droppers.
 
But as ever in fishing, there are no rules, only guidance.

Shotting Patterns

There are a few different ways of shotting a rig.

Bulk & droppers

Spread bulk

Double bulk

Strung out

So which to choose?

Bulk & Droppers
I would guess it is fair to say that the most popular or widely used will be the bulk & droppers pattern. Basically as it says, you have a bulk of shot or an olivette with a number of small shot below that.

I cannot tell you for certain why this is the most popular. I think people assume that it will get the bait down to the fish quicker.

Here I have to digress into a little science. Galileo theorised and later experimentation proved that the speed of a falling object is not influenced by its weight (mass to be precise). So in theory just because the shotting under the float is bulked together should not impact the speed at which the rig “settles”.

Galileo's theory was finally shown to be correct on the surface of the moon during the Apollo 15 mission.


And for a video


And yes I know that the line will act as a parachute and impact the speed of the shot falling through water. I'm only saying that people assume the rig settles quicker when a bulk is used. You believe what you want to believe and in time will develop confidence in what you do as regards shotting a pole rig. Lowering the rig vertically will remove the influence of the line and this means we can, I think, place our faith in Galileo.  I'll talk more about this when we go fishing.

The bulk can be made by using an olivette or a string of shot. I would probably use No.6 shot though others would tell me that these are too large.

How much of the float's loading should be in the bulk? No hard and fast rule but I would actually work from the opposite end and ask what droppers do you want. For example if I wanted to use three No.10s as my droppers I would put these on first then make most of the remaining required weight my bulk.

When forming a bulk it is worth incorporating two or three smaller shot like No.10s at the bottom of the bulk. This means that if you wish you can slide these down and increase the number of droppers or double the existing ones up to make them heavier.

Also I would leave a small amount to be added on the bank as you can never predict the exact requirement for the conditions on the day. I nearly always have a small shot immediately below the float stem to act as an indicator in case the float slides up the line. In the main this is also where I add any extra shot required to finally trim the float down when in use. Similarly I add backshot above the float and this also marks the float's position on the line. But more of backshotting later.

Where should the bulk be? Anywhere from just below half distance to possibly all just above the hooklength if no droppers are being used. Conditions, experience and target species can all play a part in making this decision. As a starting point I would recommend 12 to 15 inches above the hooklength.

Spread Bulk
Some anglers like to spread the shot making up the bulk out over a short distance. Let us assume we are using five or six No.8 shot as our bulk. These can be spaced out around half an inch to an inch apart.

I think the main reason this is used is because it is pleasing to the eye. If you hold the rig top and bottom at an angle the spread bulk forms a nice curve where a compact bulk would form an angle.  Because of the hinge effect between each of the shot it also means the fish only has to move a small portion of the bulk for a bite to register rather than the whole thing.

Again, experiment yourself and see if you prefer a spread bulk to a compact. Or more importantly, what do the fish prefer?

You can still have droppers below the spread bulk.

Double Bulk
This is a pattern that I am told is favoured by anglers targeting skimmers/bream.

As the name suggests you split your bulk into two. The main bulk will be around 18 inches from the hook with a small bulk, possibly as little as two No.10s two inches from the hook. This is not a shotting pattern I have ever used as it entails putting shot on the hooklength. But it may be something you wish to try.

Strung Out
This is, I have to admit, my normal pattern for stillwaters. I switched from using a bulk & droppers a few years ago on a day when it seemed fish were rejecting the bait when feeling the bulk. Bites improved that day and I now use this pattern most of the time.

Why do I think it works? I believe that while you have all the benefits of the weight of shot, i.e. 0.5g, you have the sensitivity of a lighter shotting pattern near the hook. And remember Galileo, a single No.6 should sink as quickly as a bulk of them. Certainly I do not notice any great delay in the float settling.

On my 0.5g standard commercial rig I will have three number ten droppers and then four No.6 shot spread up the line. In favourable conditions the first No.6 will be within a few inches of the float and the rest spread evenly and the final No.10 just above the hooklength. If there is a tow or I just feel I need the shot more closely spaced I will slide everything down so the first No.6 is at around half depth. The droppers may then only be an inch or two apart.

I suppose I really should use No.8s instead of the No.6s. But I find I still get bites and shotting with three No.10 and four No.6 easy to remember. I have been experimenting with No.8s on my Winter commercial rigs. Again just a thought that the slightly better look of the rig may help bite detection when it gets tough.

On my canal rigs with a 0.2g float I will use a string of six or seven No.10 shot again starting just above the hooklength and spread as far apart as I think the day demands. Although I may occasionally swap the bottom No.10 for a No.9. The slightly heavier shot as the last dropper will, hopefully magnify the effect of a fish moving it. Combined with a very sensitive bristle I think this improves bite detection. But its only a theory.

A variation of this shotting pattern is to gradually reduce the size of the shot as they get closer to the hook. This looks to overcome the faster water nearer the surface and give less weight in the lower depths where any flow will be less.

How Much Shot?
I am lucky in that I have a couple of water barrels in the garden and so I can shot floats in them. But if you haven't got that facility you can use a tube or cut down pop bottle filled with water to help shot floats at home.

But using tap water or even rainwater will not fully replicate actual water conditions when fishing. So if shotting this way at home then allow a little leeway to add shot on the day.  I normally leave the whole bristle and possibly part of the body showing when shotting in a barrel. 

Another thing you can do is use an app to calculate the shotting given the stated loading of the float. So without access to water you can still shot floats at home with a degree of confidence that they will be nearly correct when first used. But still leave a small amount to be added on the day.

Shottafloat is a phone app that will convert the 4xNN markings on floats into a weight in grammes and then also suggest how that weight can be made up using shot.


The Hardy online calculator allows you to play with various combinations of shot and styls to arrive at a certain weight.


How Much Bristle
One mistake I see many inexperienced pole anglers make is to have too much float or bristle showing. People worry that if “dotted down” too far they will not be able to see the float when settled and thus will miss bites. As long as the bristle is still visible then you will see the bite when it comes. Eyesight, distance and bristle thickness will all play a part in deciding just how much to leave visible. But trust me, you can sink a float lower than you may imagine and still see bites, even with a chop on the water.

 
The picture on the left shows a float as I would expect to shot it at home. 
Note that it has settled with all of the bristle and some of the body above the surface. 
The picture on the right shows  the same float with an acceptable amount of bristle showing.  Personally I may still add some more shot (No.12)
to at least halve the amount of bristle above the surface.
The No.11 backshot is keeping the line near the float underwater as I will explain later.
 

When there is a chop on the water many will try and have more float showing. In my opinion this is wrong. I still try and dot my floats down. What I am looking for is the float to ride through the peaks and troughs, not up and down with them. The best way to achieve this is to have a heavier float and little bristle showing. Yes it will disappear as each peak passes but you will soon see the rhythm, strike when that rhythm is interrupted. It may not be a bite every time that happens but I would rather strike at false bites than miss the one when it happens.

I have said that I dot my floats down most of the time. But there are days when you may need more showing. In the main this will be days when you are being troubled by small fish or fish brushing the line are causing false bites. So if you are getting bites and not hooking fish you may wish to try taking some weight off and having more bristle showing. You will get fewer indications but those you get should be proper bites where the float disappears.

Backshotting
After an experience that showed me the importance of backshotting I now add backshot to most if not all of my rigs.

Backshot are shot that are added to the line between the pole and the float. They serve two purposes. The first is to sink the line, they can also be used to trim the float sinking the bristle to the precise level the angler desires. Being above the float they can be moved up the line to reveal more bristle if desired.

The effect of sinking the line is twofold. It stops any wind affecting the line and moving the float around. This will improve the control you have over a pole float and improve presentation.  Second it can improve bite detection because the fish do not have to pull the line through the surface tension. And that resistance can be considerable particularly to small silvers.

The way I backshot most of my rigs is to add a No.11 near the float (as in the picture above), I set this on the line level with the tip of the bristle when the rig is suspended. A No.11 will keep the line sunk but not unduly unbalance the float. I then add a No.9 near the pole tip. This shot helps sink the line from pole to float initially but being near the pole tip will not affect the float. The size and position of this shot can be changed depending on conditions. When windy it may be as much as a No.6.

If you wish you can add a few (I add four) No.12 or 13 shot that can be slid down to the No.11 or up to the No.9 depending on whether you want less or more bristle showing.

Get the shotting right on the day and you will increase your catch. And so it is worth taking the trouble to get this element of your pole fishing spot on. Those that don't take the trouble, make the effort, will catch less.

So with rigs made and shotted lets go pole fishing.
 

Friday, 21 October 2016

Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 5 - Rigs and Hooklengths


Rigs – an essential part of pole fishing. You have two choices. Buy ready made rigs or make your own.

Ready Made Rigs
Probably the easiest way for a beginner to start. But you have to be careful, there are good and bad. And are they the right tool for the job? Bear in mind that a ready made rig will already be shotted and most likely have a hooklength attached. So you have to ensure that what you buy is actually what you need for the venue you are going to fish.

Stick to a major brand such as Drennan who's rigs are made with the AS (Alan Scotthorne) floats or Daiwa & Shakespeare, equally good names.

You can get custom made rigs tied to order. Just search the internet for “hand made pole rigs” or “custom pole rigs” to find some suppliers.

Most ready made rigs come on a huge length of line. Unless you are fishing a ridiculously deep water the rig will need to be cut down before use.  I will explain how much when we finally get fishing.

The one thing that puzzles me about ready made rigs is what you do with the bits when the rig gets too short or is trashed. You can't just throw the float and hooklength away surely.  Not surprising therefore that as a pole angler of long standing I of course make my own. 

Making Your Own Rigs
What You Will Need -
 
Floats – Discussed in part 4
 
Silicone Tubing – I buy from eBay and use 0.5 and 0.7mm
 
Line – See below
 
Shot – Discussed in part 4
 
Hooks/hooklengths – See below
 
Winder – Just make sure you buy winders long enough to take your chosen floats.
 
Anchor – Available from all tackle shops.
 
Loop Tyer/Sizer - Optional

Line
Most if not all pole anglers will use a “high tech” line. These lines are also known as pre-stretched. They are a thinner diameter for the same breaking strain than those used for reel lines. Being pre-stretched they are, in material science terms, brittle and less robust. The elastic in the pole provides the shock absorption required to prevent breakages.
 
You will find that when anglers talk of lines traditional mono used on a reel is usually referred to by breaking strain, high tech lines tend to be referred to by diameter.

I use Preston Reflo Power for no other reason than it is what my local tackle shop sells. I am aware that if you do your own measurement that this line is around 0.02mm thicker than stated on the label. I take the stated diameter as a guide not an absolute.

Two simple questions for me - am I getting bites and am I loosing fish? If I am not getting bites I may need a thinner line, if I am having fish break me then I need thicker.  What I want is the balance between the two, the diameter number I use therefore is almost irrelevant. Its a bit like knowing I am comfortable in an XL tee shirt. I really don't care what the measurement of chest size XL is supposed to be.  But I know it is smaller than XXL and larger than L.

Choose your favoured or available line and learn how to use it.

Hooks
These will very much depend on what type of fishing you are doing and personal preference. I would suggest that wherever possible people will use spade end hooks though eyed have their place with heavier lines. This is because it is more difficult to get a secure whipping on a spade end hook with thicker lines.

For this reason I use spade end hooks with Reflo Power 0.13mm and eyed hooks with line thicker than that.

Spade end hooks being a little lighter can aid getting a better presentation. A small difference but can be vital when targeting silvers.

I can only really talk about the hooks I use and will list them and the lines they are teamed with just as a guide. For further options I suggest asking on a forum like maggotdrowning.com.

Commercial Fishery (barbless)
Kamasan B611, spade end size 16 with 0.13 Reflo Power, size 18 with 0.10. Bait – soft pellets, corn, maggot, meat

Kamasan B911, eyed size 16 with 0.17 – hard & soft pellet, corn, meat

Canal Silvers (barbed)
Sensas 3050, spade size 20 with 0.06 – bread, maggot, pinkie, squatt, caster

Kamasan B511 size 18 with 0.08 or 20 with 0.06 – caster, maggot, pinkie, squatt

River (barbed)
Kamasan B511 size 18 with 0.10 – maggot, caster, hemp, worm or 16 with 0.10 specifically for hemp

If I feel I need a stronger hook and line combination on the canal for targeting tench, bigger bream or even carp I will turn to my commercial carp hooks/line.

Hooklengths
I have settled on two lengths of hooklength but this is a subject that divides opinions amongst pole anglers. Everyone has their favoured length. Sometimes this will be species dependant. Again I will state what I do.

Most of the hooklengths I use, and I make my own, are ten inches. I like this length for a few reasons, but I cannot state for certain that my reasoning is sound or makes a difference.

First it gives the last twenty inches of the baits fall hopefully as natural a look as possible. As I never put shot on a hooklength it keeps the last dropper shot above the eyeline of the fish. It allows me to go up to nine inches overdepth without affecting the shotting. I also think it allows the bait to act more naturally when settled as a passing fish can waft it more easily than were I to have shot closer.
 
I will use this length on both commercials and rivers. I also use it on canals where I want to fish with a few inches of line on the deck. Useful I feel when the canal may tow due to a lock opening.

The other length I use is four inches. I reserve this mainly for fishing at dead depth on a canal or stillwater silvers fishing. I really can't justify my choice with logic here. Its just that I have succumbed to the theory that the shy bites you may get mid-Winter from roach on a canal may show up better with a short hooklength. I combine this with a heavy final dropper like a No.9 who's movement I think will have a greater effect on the float.

I also use four inch hooklengths on commercials when specifically targeting F1 carp. I have to admit that I don't get on well with these fish and thus follow the advice of the experts who tell me shorter hooklengths are the way to go.

Having given this subject some thought while writing this I do wonder if the length of hooklength I use may be influenced by the way different species actually take the bait.  Roach are a darting type fish.  By this I mean they are very mobile and move around a swim quickly.  Just as quickly they can, I believe, take and reject a bait but are constantly moving, particularly on stillwaters.  Carp on the other hand tend to graze or grub about sucking in food and thus hookbait without moving far, and not quickly. 

I think therefore that the shorter hooklength works for roach because they move the final dropper while carp actually pull the rig down when sucking in a bait.  But don't ask me about F1s because these fish still baffle me!

Making Up Rigs
This may seem like a simple task to some but I'll go through it just in case anyone isn't sure.

First thing we need is a length of line but how long? You don't want to waste line but on the other hand you don't want to be caught out with rigs that are too short. In my blog on my simple approach to pole fishing I detail the lengths of rigs I make for commercials. In the main this is decided by the float and the rig's intended use. The following is a simple run down, lengths are without hooklength.
 
4 foot – for margin or up in the water fishing with a dibber or 0.2g short float

7 foot – for full depth fishing as most commercials are between 4 & 6 foot deep, float will be 0.5g 
 
10 foot - for deeper commercials or days when the weather is poor when I need a heavier float, 1g and heavier floats.
 
My canal rigs are four and six foot as the Grand Union that I fish is only a maximum five foot deep and regularly I am looking to fish just in just 3 foot of water up the far shelf.

Rivers I make rigs of seven and ten foot with appropriate floats.

The way I make my rigs is as follows – cut a length of line and tie a loop with an figure of eight knot at what will be the top end. Thread on the float followed by three short lengths (3-5mm) of silicone tube. The silicone should be snug on the stem but not overly tight. Three pieces for two reasons. First, if one breaks you still have two. Also having three means that the stem will not bend as easily when moving the float on the line. Important if you use wire stemmed floats, then even four pieces of silicone may be advisable. The silicone is then threaded onto the stem with one piece at the very bottom, one just under the float and the other midway. 

The silicone just under the float is not tight to the body but around 1cm down the stem.  This reduces the angle the line makes around the float body and thus reduces the pressure that cuts the line into the body when playing a fish.

If using an olivette either add the inline olivette now or the two pieces of silicone that will hold a pronged version in place.

I now tie the bottom loop. I think it is worth taking the trouble to use a loop tyer or sizer to get consistent sized loops.

Whether you add shot at this point or wait until you get to the bank is up to you. I add the shot when I make the rig. But as I know my floats and what shot they will take plus I know what shotting pattern I am going to use most of the time it saves time on the bank. And I always struggle to set up in time for a match so saving minutes is vital to me.

Shotting and shotting patterns will be discussed in the next section.

Whether you add a hooklength at home or on the bank is up to you. I do both. Because of the limited range of hooklengths I use I know what will go on the rig and so will add some hooklengths and take other rigs without. Again a bit of a time-saving ploy.

Once done you can store your rig on its winder. You will see that most winders have a shallow and deep side, the float needs to sit on the deep side. May be obvious to some but …..  Anchor in place and if necessary mark the winder with the rig's details. Trust me you will not remember what is on what winder unless, like me, you use a limited range of rigs and use the winder colour to identify them.
 

 
A typical rig selection for a day on a commercial.  Actually several days.
 

Light blue  - 0.2g float on 4ft of 0.17 line
Dark blue - 0.5g float on 7ft of 0.17 line
Yellow - 1g float on 10ft of 0.17 line
Green - 0.5g float on 7ft of 0.17 line (thinner & longer bristle than the dark blue)

You don't NEED loads of variations in order to catch fish.  I do have some other rigs that get swapped in for specific venues or time of year.  These are explained fully on my simple pole fishing post.  But I would be comfortable going to almost any commercial water in the Summer with this set of rigs.

And the same for my canal rigs.


All on 0.11 line
Pink - 0.5g and 1g floats on 6ft of line
Yellow - 0.2g on 4ft
Green - 0.2g on 6ft
Lilac - 0.4g on 6ft



Monday, 17 October 2016

Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 4, Floats & Shot

It is an old saying that floats are designed to catch anglers not fish. This is never more true than when talking of pole floats. To the beginner the array of patterns, sizes, colours, loading and materials is bewildering - and tempting. There is absolutely no need to try and buy or use every different combination. As I have discovered you really can get by with a very small range of floats.

Hopefully I can guide you through the maze so you can fish your chosen floats with confidence.  Once you have become comfortable with the pole you can then, if you wish, expand your float collection

Consider that floats do two jobs. Holding up the bait and indicating bites. Every float will do this. So to a small degree it doesn't matter what it looks like or is made from. The time for refinement will come once you have some experience fishing the pole.

Before I get onto the actual float I think it worth taking a detour to talk about the weights we use with the float.

Shot, Stotz, Styls and Olivettes


Shot
Hopefully we all know the traditional round shot. Numbered 13 to 1 with the weight getting bigger the smaller the number. Larger than a size 1 we then get into letters BB, AA, and SSG (swanshot). For most pole fishing applications we will use nothing larger than a No.6. And for some even that is a no-no, 8 or 9 being the largest they will use.

I will mention at this point that in England it is illegal to use pure lead in any fishing shot/Stotz/Styls heavier than a No.8.

Because pole fishing is all about finesse and accuracy the tiniest shot, 11, 12 & 13 are used frequently. They help get a float shotted precisely as the angler wants. The trouble is that these tiny round shot are a devil to get on the line. Being round they roll away from where you want them. This problem was solved, certainly for me, with the invention of Stotz.

Stotz
The brand name for the Preston Innovations alternative to round shot. They are extruded and cut producing a rectangular, almost cubic shape before being squeezed on the line. Because of their shape they don't roll. Handling becomes easier thus encouraging the use of the smaller sizes in perfecting shotting of pole floats.  Before Stotz became available I gave up trying to use 12 & 13 shot.  Now I use these sizes of Stotz regularly.

Stotz are numbered exactly the same and are interchangeable with shot. It is just the shape that is different. So when you see numbers referring to shot sizes they apply equally to Stotz.

Other manufacturers have now followed on and produced their own version of Stotz. But the idea is the same.

Where later I refer to shot I will mean both shot and Stotz, which you use is personal choice. But I will say that since using Stotz I have never gone back to shot.

Styls
Styl weights were first used on the continent, possibly France or Belgium. Like Stotz they are extruded and cut to length. But the numbering is totally different as is the weight of the individual pieces compared to shot.  Styls are also thinner and longer than Stotz.  As far as I am aware all styls are pure lead being made primarily for the continental market where lead is not banned.

Styls are numbered 1-20 and get heavier the higher the number. But note that sizes 1-6 are rarely used as they are less than 0.01g and sizes 12-20 are illegal in England/UK. So generally we would see only sizes 7-11.

The shotting capacity of most pole floats tends to be marked in styls. This is a carry over from the floats having originated on the continent.

Any difficulty handling either styls or Stotz can be overcome by using either styl pliers or a similar tool made for Stotz.

Float Shotting Capacity Markings
The majority of pole floats will be marked “4xNN” where NN is the size number of a styl so the marking indicates the float's capacity as four of a certain size of styl. Normally only the even styl numbers are used.

The following is a very rough indication of the gramme equivalent of standard styl markings.

4 X 11 = 0.1g

4 X 12 = 0.2g

4 X 14 = 0.4g

4 X 16 = 0.6g     (Actually its 0.5 but that doesn't fit the pattern)

4 X 18 = 0.8g

4 X 20 = 1.0g

You should be able to spot the simple rule of thumb the above list reveals.

Some pole floats will be marked in grammes so you will see markings like 0.2, 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0.

I have known of some makers of handmade floats to mark their products in shot. But this will normally be obvious or the maker will tell you when you buy.

One important thing for the novice pole angler to understand that these markings are NOT an indication of how the float should be shotted. They are just an indication of the total shotting capacity of the float. What actual weights you use or what sizes and shotting pattern is up to the angler.

I will discuss shotting patterns in a future section.

Olivette
French for small olive and that gives away their shape. These are weights used in place of shot to provide a compact bulk. Attached to the line either by the line passing through or using two silicone sleeves to trap the olivette by way of two prongs sticking out top & bottom just like a pole float stem.

 

In line olivettes.  Usully trapped in place with shot above and below. 
Very thin and short lengths of  bristle pushed into the hole can be used also.  
 

Although they can be used in sizes down to 0.2/0.4g I would venture to suggest their main use is on floats of 1g and more in deep water.

The olivette will be much smaller than an equivalent shot or string of shot thus will sink more quickly due to the reduced drag.

Pole Floats

Strictly speaking you can use just about any float on a pole. When I refer to pole floats though I am talking about the accepted bristle topped or dome topped floats made specifically for pole fishing.

Because the variations and range of floats available is large and this is a beginner's guide I am not going to try and explain all of them.  As you develop and learn so you will discover what you prefer and what works on your venues.

Do not get tempted to buy a vast range of floats in different sizes. Start with one or two patterns in a couple of sizes and go from there. When I say sizes, I see little point in having floats that are just 0.2 grammes different in weight. 0.5 and 1 gramme floats will cover most situations. If targeting silvers on a lake up to four to five foot in depth or a slow moving, shallow canal then some floats of around 0.2g may be suitable. For fishing up in the water or margins then shorter dibber type floats are an advantage.

There is an accepted rule of thumb that for still waters like lakes and canals your float should carry 0.1 gramme per foot of depth. This is a guide and not an absolute. I will happily use a 0.75 gramme float in four foot of water if the water is flowing like a canal when the lock gates open. 0.2g in five or six foot if it is a calm day on a lake or canal can give me the sensitivity to spot delicate bites.

The important thing is that the float allows you to control the presentation and the bait.

If you wish to read an explanation of different patterns and materials then follow the link below and read the first part of the article by Nemesis. It is not exhaustive but it covers the basics.

http://www.maggotdrowning.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=104164


Parts of the Float
There are four basic elements to a pole float – bristle, body, stem and eye. Though not all pole floats will have all of these.


A standard pole float showing the four basic parts.
 

 
A tiny dibber style float I use. 
Shown next to a 5p coin for scale.
 

Eyes
Just because pole fishing is complicated we of course have to have at least two types of eyes.

First is what is known as a side eye. This is made from a piece of fine wire, twisted and with a loop or hole, the “eye” at one end. The cut end is pushed into the float body so the eye sticks out enabling the line to be threaded through.

When playing big fish these eyes can be pulled out of the float. Thus there was seen a need for a more robust type and the spring or figure of eight eye was born.

The spring eye is basically a coiled length of fine wire that fits snugly over the float bristle and has a protruding eye of some kind to accept the line. Being anchored to the base of the bristle it is a lot more robust than a side eye.

I add spring eyes to most of the floats I use for commercial carp fishing though many are made with them already in place.

Commercial Carp Floats
The very limited range of floats I use for commercial carp fishing are detailed in my blog on my simple approach to this type of venue.

http://neilofthenene.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/my-simple-approach-to-pole-fishing.html

Unfortunately the online store I got my floats from has stopped trading. But reading this article will show you the general patterns of floats I use and demonstrate that you don't need a vast range to catch fish.

Canal, River and Natural Lake Silvers Floats
Rivers and canals can vary tremendously so it is impossible for me to tell you which type of floats you will need for your local waters. The best people to advise is your local tackle shop and experienced local pole anglers.

Generally though you will need floats that are probably lighter and have a finer bristle when tackling canals and lake roach than you would use when targeting commercial carp.  Rivers may demand a much heavier float with a more buoyant bristle to combat the flow and keep the bait where you want it.   

Lollipop or Flat floats
Specifically a river or flowing water float. Worth mentioning because they are so different to anything else. Having used them to good effect I can attest to the fact that they are not a gimmick and truly work.

Two views of a flat float.
 
When sitting perfectly in a river's flow the bristle will be vertical.  These floats range in size from around 1 gramme to as much as 75 grammes (3 ounces!) for deep, fast flowing rivers.  The much larger sizes tend to be used more on the continent, most British rivers not requiring such extremes.

Hand Made v Mass Produced
Here you very much pays your money and takes your choice.  I have never used hand made floats.  Not because I have anything against them, I just have never felt the need.

Those that swear by them tell me they are more robust and have a better build quality. 

All I can say is that I am happy with the mass produced floats I currently use and see no reason to switch.  My advice would be to learn what you want from your pole floats before plunging into the hand made arena.  There are plenty of good makers out there.  And for the adventurous you can make your own.  All the materials are available on eBay.

Float Care
There is not much to say really but I will mention a couple of things. 

The first thing I do with any new float is to give the body a couple of coats of clear nail varnish.  Some will insist it must be a certain brand.  I just go for the cheapest I can get.  I will then re-paint the floats with a coat or two each time I re-make a rig, particularly where the line may have cut into the body. 

I know the float should be ready to go when bought but I get a little bit of confidence knowing I have sealed all the holes (stem, bristle, eye) and given the body that little bit of extra protection.  The varnish dries to a very thin finish and so has no noticeable effect on shotting capacity.

Not something I have done but you could, if you so wished, use a coloured varnish and so make your floats individual, even sparkly or fluorescent - tackle tart heaven?

The other thing I do with my floats I use for carp fishing is to add a spring eye if there isn't one already.  The eyes can be bought cheaply on eBay and a spot of superglue will hold it in place on the bristle.  Just make sure you get the size right.  For a 2mm bristle you will need a 2.1mm eye.

And if I do damage a float I have no issue repairing it if at all possible.  I have re-fitted bristles stems and eyes.  Just superglue in place and nail varnish over when set to seal.


My final word on pole floats is that I am a believer in the old adage that if it looks right then it will be right.  If a pole float looks to you that it will do the intended job then use it with confidence.

Best example of this is the float I love to use on the canal.  To me it just looks beautiful, and it is brilliant for those small canal roach.  7 inches/18cm long, 0.2g and a bristle that can be sunk by a No.12 shot.

Monday, 10 October 2016

Beginner's Guide To Pole Fishing, Part 3b - Elasticating Your Pole (2 of 2)


Fitting the Bush

There are two ways to approach this.
  1. First is to cut the tip of the topkit back to the diameter or length you want and then go in search of a bush to fit.
  2. The other is to find a bush that will accept your chosen elastic and cut the tip back to accommodate it. 
Given the scenario I described earlier with match and power kits for your pole you may need to adopt both methods in getting all your topkits kits to the same length.

Let me assume that you wish to have a certain elastic in your match kit and have sourced a bush of the right diameter to accommodate this. Offer the bush up to the topkit and find the point on, presumably the number one section, where the bush looks like it will fit. Now cut the section around 2-3 inches above that point. You can cut bits off but not stick them back on. I detail how to cut carbon in section 3a of this guide.

If you have an external bush the tip should go into the bush loosely, an external will not fit in at all. Now remove roughly an inch of tip at a time, or less when getting close, until you get a snug fit of either internal or external bush.

You can, if you wish, use a small drop of superglue to stick the bush in place but I have never found this necessary.

Fitting the Bung



 
 Examples of three types of bung. 
The top is a winder bung showing the elastic attached by way of a loop in the elastic and a cow hitch.  Middle is a puller bung. 
Bottom a non-winder bung. 
 

I'll mention side pullers later.

All bungs except pullers are supplied with an extractor rod.  This is used to pull the bung out of the topkit after it is fitted and during the fitting process.  Puller bungs as you can see from the picture have a rod fixed to them permanently.
 
Like cutting the topkit back this is a job not to be rushed. Take it one stage at a time and don't be tempted to try and go for it in one cut.

The end product will be a bung that gets pulled into the butt of the topkit by the elastic far enough not to foul the male number four section when inserted but still within reach of the extractor rod.  In the case of a puller bung the rod needs to protrude slightly from the butt so you can grasp the bead and pull the elastic.  Better it sticks out too far than disappearing up the pole to start with.  Final adjustments can be made later.

You need to buy a bung that is approximately the right size, slightly oversized, for the butt end of your topkit.   It should have a small amount protruding from the bottom of the section when first inserted.  Insert the bung into the end of the topkit and with a pen mark where it meets the carbon.   

Gently cut round the bung at the marked point, most have concentric rings or ridges to help you. Once cut offer the bung again and see how far it will go into the topkit. You will find it goes a very short distance. Now trim another ring off the bung and fit again. Keep repeating this until the bung will go far enough in so as not to foul the number four section when it is inserted but still within reach of the extractor rod.  

When trying the bung for fit push it firmly up the section with the extractor rod. Not too tight but comfortably snug. If you are not sure leave the final cut until you have fitted the elastic even if this means that for now the number four cannot be fully inserted.

When you are happy with the fit remove the bung and place to one side.
 
Cow Hitch Knot
I refer occasionally to a knot I know as the cow hitch.  It is worth showing here how that knot is formed.


 
 

Threading the elastic
I always look to fit the bung first as it is easier to get the right length of elastic with that in place.

Depending on the length of the topkit and the length of the diamond eye threader you may have to play around with either threading each section of the topkit separately (take apart) or telescoping the sections together if the threader is too short to do the lot in one go.

You may wonder why not just poke the elastic through the topkit, why use a threader? Elastics have a tendency, particularly light ones, of sticking to the inside wall of the topkit. So a lot easier and less frustrating to use the threader.

To attach a winder bung or bung without a winder and with the elastic through the topkit tie a loop in the bung end of the elastic. Use a cow hitch type loop to attach the bung at the bottom of the winder or the top of an ordinary bung, or insert the loop into the bung's connector. You can take a few turns of elastic around the winder if you wish at this point.

If using a puller bung thread the elastic through the hollow rod of the bung and then through a bead. Tie a knot in the elastic big enough so it cannot pull through the bead under tension. With a round bead I will tie a loop in the end of the elastic, pull this through the bead with the threader and trap the bead in a cow hitch pulled tight. 

Pull the elastic from the tip of the pole and seat the bung into the base of the topkit. With the topkit at full length keep pulling the elastic until it bottoms out, or nearly so. Gently release the elastic back into the pole.

I like to set my elastic so it just creeps back into the pole before the attached connector or dacron butts up to the bush. To do this I pull a few inches of elastic out and feel the tension, letting the elastic slide back in a few times until I am happy I know where I want the connector tied on. I mark an inch or two above this point with a marker pen. I can now release the elastic knowing I can find that mark again.

Get a disgorger or cocktail stick and then pull the elastic out so that the mark is now 18 inches or so outside the pole. Form a cow hitch around the disgorger/cocktail stick and let this butt up against the bush. The elastic will tighten and not retract back into the pole. You can now safely cut the elastic at the mark and not have it spring back into the pole.  This makes fitting  a connector or dacron a lot easier.  You can also use a clothes peg with a strong spring to do the same job. 

 
As described, a disgorger used to prevent the elastic
outside the pole being pulled back in while working on it. 
When done the knot slides off and disappears. 


Side Puller
You will need to start the threader off through the side puller hole and up out of the tip.  You may want to put the elastic through a bead and tie a knot as with the puller bung first then put the other end of the elastic in the eye of the threader.  This will prevent you pulling the elastic all the way through and having to start again.  Or again, grip the elastic with a clothes peg.

Attaching a Connector
Remove the larger collar from the connector and slide this onto the elastic – right way round. Then pass the elastic through the hole in the connector and tie the doubled elastic into a knot. I use a figure of eight. Moisten the knot and tighten up to the connector. Cut off the spare elastic and slide the collar onto the connector. Remove the disgorger/cocktail stick from the elstic and everything should spring back into place with the connector snug to the bush.

One small adjustment I make to my connectors is to cut the end off of the collar with a sharp knife. You will find that many collars have the end that is going to butt up to the bush will have a shoulder making a smaller hole than the other end. I find this can restrict the knot and when playing larger fish even pull the collar off. So I cut the shoulder off to allow the knot to move freely.

Attaching a Dacron
Best thing I can do here is to point you to a video demonstration. This Alan Scotthorne video shows this and how to attach your rig.





That should be your topkit elasticated.

Maintenance
You should not have to do much with the elastic apart from checking it for wear.  You would normally notice any deterioration or wear each time you fist a rig on.  It is worth just looking at the last few inches of elastic every now and then to check it is OK.

If the elastic does show signs of wear or is deteriorating then there are two options.  You may need to replace the whole elastic.  If though you have wound a few turns onto a winder bung you should be able to undo these and then re-fit the connector/dacron.  This will remove the worn section of elastic.

Because I change elastics Autumn and Spring for strengths applicable for Summer and Winter I just replace the whole lot at those times.

When you do change elastics it is worth flushing the topkit with warm, soapy water to remove any dirt that may have got in.  Remove the elastic and bung and either suck the water up from the tip end and let it drain out or pour the water down from the butt end.