Feeder Fishing Commercials – Part 4 - Casting, Accuracy and Rod Placement

Casting Accuracy 

 Accurate casting is, I think, essential for all forms of legering. It is something that many anglers struggle with. But it really is about practice, technique, practice, confidence and practice. 

 Distance is probably the easiest to master. With a line clip you can hit the same distance time after time. The most important thing is to cast with confidence and hit the clip firmly with every cast. 

 Some will worry about using a clip when targeting carp. If casting to a far bank the clip can be used with confidence. If a fish is hooked it can only swim left or right and side strain with a low rod tip should see it under control. In open water, if you are not confident of using the clip there are a couple of things you can do to maintain accurate distance without clipping up. 

First is to find your desired distance then put a rubber band around the reel spool. This will stop the cast in flight like a line clip but can be pulled off by a big fish if it runs away from you. 

Second is to again find your distance and then tie some line onto the main line with a sliding knot just in front of the reel. When casting listen for the sliding knot to rattle through the rod rings, trap the line on the spool and the feeder should land at about the same distance each time. Once tightened up to the feeder the knot should be visible either between the rod rings or just off the tip. 

 It is a good idea to count how many turns of the reel handle it takes to retrieve the feeder. If you have to take the line off the clip, or the rubber band gets pulled off you can, within a few casts, get the distance perfect again. 

One thing to teach yourself is to have the rod in the same position as the feeder hits the line clip. I prefer to drop the rod to the side. Others hold the rod above their head. 

Perfection is stopping the feeder in flight a foot or two above the water so that it falls just that distance before hitting the surface. Whether you then keep a tight or slack line to the feeder as it sinks is personal choice. Sometimes dictated by the depth of water. 

Direction is a matter of lining up with a marker and a repeatable casting action, muscle memory as it is known in some sports. 

My method to achieve accuracy at distance is as follows. With the feeder hanging from the rod tip position the rod so it is pointing back over your head. One hand should be on the reel seat with finger trapping the line, bail arm open. The other hand should be on the butt end. I then line up the rod handle between my hands (reel above eye line, butt below) with the far bank marker I have chosen. The rod should be vertical as you see it and from the side it is angled back over the head. Sweep the rod forward so that the tip ends up aiming at the marker (and remember to release the line). This way the tip has described a straight line from behind the head to pointing in front so the feeder must be projected along that same line. 

 If you have a dominant eye it can help to close the weaker one. 

 Put the two together. Distance and direction and you have your accuracy. If you want to master these then have a day when you leave all other rods and poles at home, just take the leger gear and fish that for five or six hours. By the end of the day you should have the accuracy nailed. 

Short Casts 

There is though a different technique I employ when only casting around sixteen metres, maximum twenty. That is an underhand lob. The benefits of this style of cast is that the feeder travels slower than overhead casting and you can see the feeder all the way to the target. The feeder can land softer and thus the underhand is ideal for snake type lakes. 

The technique is simple. Hold the rod in one hand, elbow on the butt, in front of you at around 45 degrees. Allow the feeder to hang quite a way from the tip and at the same time pull some line from the reel with your free hand. Start to pendulum the feeder in line with the spot you are aiming for. As the feeder swings towards you flick the rod upwards and also pull line with the free hand to compress the rod tip. Release the line and let the feeder arc towards your target. You can watch the feeder and feather the line to achieve a very good accuracy. Once mastered you can make the feeder “plop” into the water with little disturbance. 

 You can use a line clip with this method though I don't bother most of the time. 

I demonstrate the cast in this video, click the link

Underarm Cast

Rod Placement, Bites and Time 

Many newcomers to commercial feeder fishing can be confused by how others set up their rod to detect a bite. The simple guideline is that is doesn't matter. 

As long as there is some kind of angle between the line direction from the tip and the rod then a bite will register.  You could, in extreme circumstances point the rod straight down the line and rely on either the baitrunner facility or a butt mounted indicator to register that a fish has hooked itself. 

So anywhere between the rod pointing along the bank to pointing nearly at the feeder will do. 

Is there a correct way to position the rod? That is should it be across the body or off to the side the butt is resting. For myself, most often the butt is resting on a pole rest on my rear box leg and that then means the rod will point away from my body to the right (I'm right handed). But if it is more convenient to mount it pointing to the left and the butt resting on something else I don't mind. 

That then brings me on to feeder arms. Are they essential? Not in my opinion. I do carry one but rarely use it. I place the rod anywhere that is convenient. That could be on the keepnet, on my bucket, the lip of the platform, on a bankstick mounted rest or on a feeder arm if none of the others can be used. 

The reason I'm not fussed about rod position is that bites using this kind of feeder are generally unmissable. That said line bites can be mistaken for real bites and cause frustration. More about that below. 

Fishing the Method feeder or similar is a self hooking, bolt rig type of fishing. Once a fish feels the hook it will, on most occasions, swim off at a rate of knots. This will produce the unmistakeable wrap round bite. 

I have been asked about distinguishing a real bite from the effects of wind on a windy day. Basically the wind will not pull the rod off the rest. So if you wait until that nearly happens you can be certain its a fish and not mother nature. That also helps with line bites. 

To me line bites take two forms. You can get trembling and small indications on the tip as fish mill around the feeder. The other kind are when a fish brushes the line between feeder and tip. Often this will be when the fish passes under the line which rubs along its back, over the dorsal fin and then over the tail. This produces two distinct movements of the tip, after both it will resume its previous position. 

I think I have said before, when the bend in the rod reaches the middle section its time to pick the rod up as the fish is probably hooked by then.

As for how long before re-casting this varies for me with the time of year.  In Winter I will wait 15 minutes.  Summer 8-10.  Within this time though I expect to get bites a similar time after each cast.  So if I am getting bites in Summer after 5-6 minutes then I will retrieve the feeder on eight minutes, In Winter I may get bites at ten minutes and so may retrieve at twelve minutes.   

Feeder Fishing Commercials – Part 3 - Tackle

I think we are very fortunate today in that there is a wealth of good tackle available to suit all budgets. Cheap does not necessarily mean unsuitable or poor quality. 

My main rod & reel combination for commercials cost £35 for the rod and £10 for the reel. You can, of course spend a lot more. The choice is up to the individual, their circumstances and preferences. My cheap gear does all I ask of it.

 

Spending more may not get you more fish but you will get pleasure and satisfaction from owning and using something top rate.  Only you can decide.

Rods

Any rod that is sold as a “carp feeder” or “commercial feeder” rod will do the job. Less of a gamble with higher priced offerings. What you don't need is a specimen carp rod designed for taming carp of 20-60lb. We are looking at match sized carp in most commercials and that to me means predominantly fish under ten pound. There will of course be commercial venues that have a bigger average stamp of fish. So your choice of rod may be dictated by your normal venues.

One debate is to do with rod length. All bar one of my carp feeder rods are 12 foot. The odd one out is 13 foot for longer casts on bigger waters. Many people prefer a shorter rod for smaller venues and thus shorter casting distances.  In part four I describe how I use my 12 foot rods to cast underhand when the feeder does not have to travel far. Like may things this is a very personal matter that will in part be dictated by budget. If you can afford to buy 10, 11, 12 & 13 foot rods for different situations great.

If your budget is limited then I would, of course, recommend a 12 foot rod as a good compromise.

Reels

I would always recommend a Baitrunner of Freespool type reel for this kind of fishing. You may not use the facility often, but it is better, in my opinion to have it available when needed.

A 40/4000 size reel will marry with a 10 or 12 foot rod. My 13 footer has a 60/6000 sized reel on it. This is purely to aid long casting should it be needed.

Again, let your budget be your guide. My reels cost £10. Yes they will not be as smooth and not last as long as something in the over £50 bracket. But I have, for the price of one expensive reel, been able to put reels on all my rods so they are instantly available for use. So don't let price put you off.

Tips

In my opinion, with this style of fishing, the strength of the quiver tip is immaterial. This is not silvers legering where you need a sight board to see minute movements, a carp will take the rod off the rest. So no mistaking the bite and by the time you lift up the rod the fish will be hooked.

I don't even know what strength tips are in my rods. When the bend from the bite reaches the middle section its time to pick up the rod!

Hooklengths & Mainline

One thing newcomers to fishing this type of feeder find confusing is that the hooklength is often stronger than the main line. That goes against everything you have been taught. But there is logic behind it.

Hooklength line will tend to be a high tech (pre-stretched) line while the main line will be traditional (unstretched) mono. The pre-stretched line while finer for the same breaking strain is somewhat brittle and thus can break when subjected to a shock loading as when a fish bolts when it first feels the hook or when it shakes its head close in. On the pole this is countered using elastic. On the feeder we use a stronger breaking strain hooklength and the stretch in the main line, the rod's action and probably a baitrunner facility and/or reel drag to cushion the initial bite and lunges under the rod tip.

For casting purposes we want a mainline with a balance between strength and thickness. The strength to withstand the casting shock and lunges of the fish, the thinner line to aid distance. Once the feeder has been cast there will be enough stretch in the line for it to withstand the initial shock of a bite. So while we may use, say 6lb main line the hooklength could be 7, 8 or even 10lb. Even when landing the fish there is enough combined give in the line, rod and reel so that even double figure fish present no problem on 6lb mainline.

 

You could opt for a shock leader of heavier BS but for commercial feeder fishing I see no point.  Feeders tend to be fairly light and distances relatively short.  You will not normally be punching a 100g (4oz) feeder 100 yards.  A 20g feeder will easily cast 35-40 yards.

I am guessing but I should think the most popular length for hooklengths will be 4 inches. Some go for two or three, others five. Fisheries may dictate the minimum hooklength and this rule should be looked out for and abided by.

Hooks

There is no need to go overboard on strength or size for “match” sized carp. Again the cushioning of the main line will allow the use of standard carp hooks as used on the pole. I have heard Steve Ringer say that he uses the maximum size allowed by the fishery without any reduction in bites. As feeder world champion I guess he knows a thing or two. I wouldn't disagree but I would say go with what you are comfortable with.

If fish over ten pound are expected on a regular basis then I would step up to a stronger hook.  Most carp patterns have an Extra Strong version.

Feeder Fishing Commercials - Part 2 Hookbaits, Pellets & Groundbait

Hookbaits

There are a number of baits that can be used with the feeders described in part 1. Both traditional and new, manufactured type baits can work equally well. The thing I find strange is that fish can display a preference on any given day. The Method and other feeders are intended to produce a pile of free offerings in which is located the baited hook. The intention, at least in part, being that the fish will pick up the hookbait unintentionally when sucking in some of the free offerings. Indeed some have reported using a bare hook and still catching fish proving this happens.

Yet I have had several days when a change of bait has brought about a noticeable change in fortunes. It therefore pays to carry a selection of baits.

The following is my selection. There may be others but this is enough choices for me.

Maggots

Normally fished in multiples and dead (AKA dead reds). A live bunch of maggots will break up the parcel of groundbait or pellets on or in the feeder. Hence dead ones are used. There are a few ways of killing maggots.

For a few hookbaits they can be rolled between the fingers or on your thigh ten to twenty times being sufficient to kill them. Another method is to put a number of them in a container of cold water then gradually add hot water until they are dead. Probably the most used method though will be freezing.

One problem some people find is that when defrosted frozen maggots can turn black. I think the reason for this is that it has taken too long for the maggots to freeze. To prevent this I freeze in small batches, enough for hookbait for a day's fishing. I have found the small plastic pots my local pizza shop puts its garlic mayo in to be an ideal size. Small batches will freeze quicker than a pint in one container or bag. The batches should be placed either on the fast freeze tray or directly on the coolant channels on the bottom of a shelf.

You can place defrosted maggots in water on your side tray to try and stop air getting to them and turning them black but I have never found the need with my method of freezing.

Three or four maggots on a 16 hook like the B911 works well for me.

Sweetcorn

Another traditional but effective bait. One grain is normally sufficient. I prefer tinned corn (any brand/price) as this seems to be firmer and thus more able to withstand being squeezed along with the pellets or groundbait. I freeze leftover corn for use another day but after home freezing it is always quite soft, I think for the same reason maggots can turn black. The defrosted corn I find better for fishing corn skin or as the whole grain on the pole.

I think how you hook the corn is important. It may be, it may not. But I am given a little bit of confidence doing what I think is “right”.

Most grains are flat to a degree, or at least you can find such in the tin. For the Banjo I hook through the narrow side so that the grain lies flat on the bottom of the feeder. Then with pellets squeezed over this it is not likely to burst the hook from the grain.

I also hook this way for The Method as I feel the hook is less likely to catch on the ribs of the feeder.

For the Pellet feeder I hook the grain the other way, through the flat side, as I feel the grain then sits in the depression in the pellets better.

Others will say it makes no difference how you hook the corn. I will not disagree with them. I just have my preferred method.

Meat

Mention meat and people immediately think luncheon meat however for the feeder I think polony. For those that don't know, polony is a type of sausage. Found in the chilled meat sector of your supermarket and always in my experience in a red plastic wrapper.

Why polony and not luncheon meat? Two reasons. First is that polony is much firmer and thus I think more able to withstand being compressed into or onto a feeder. Second is that I can slice polony and freeze the slices knowing it will defrost much the same as when it was frozen. I can then take just a few of slices which can be enough for a day's fishing. I find luncheon meat, when frozen and defrosted can tend to float.

Luncheon meat can work and I have used it when I have forgotten the polony.

You can cut the polony up into cubes or use meat punches to get hook sized pieces.

Boilies, Wafters, Bandums etc.

These baits are manufactured purely as bait, not something like meat & corn taken from the supermarket shelf. Boilies were developed by the carp angling fraternity and adopted by the general coarse and match angler because they catch fish.

For general coarse work boilies tend to be smaller than those used by specimen carp anglers, in the 8-10 mm range. The shape was then adapted from spherical to dumbbell or barrel shape to make them easier to use with a bait band, though I don't use a band as I explain below.

There are a vast array of flavours and colours and they can either sink or float. I cannot say anything other than if you want to use them carry a variety. I have used them to good effect and as always, on occasion the fish can display a preference for a certain flavour, colour and buoyancy.

I have used floating baits on a four inch hooklength so the bait is popped up that far above the feeder once released from it. You can also critically balance it with shot on the hooklength or a heavy hook so it sits just on the bottom or just off it but is easily sucked up by the fish. And of course the sinking versions act like other baits and sit on the bottom until taken up by a fish.

These baits are always fished on a hair rig. There are four basic ways of attaching them. First is to use a bait band around dumbbell shaped bait. The negative side of this method is that if the bait gets caught in the landing net mesh a thrashing fish can break the hair and you then need to fit a new hooklength.

You can use a bayonet made from the shank of an eyed hook to impale the bait. The bayonet is tied to the hair as you would a bait band before tying the hook. The bait will pull off if caught in the landing net.

You can pull a hair loop through the bait. Some people will use a boily stop to hold the hair in place. Again this can cause the hair to break with a thrashing fish in the net. I have never found the need to use a stop. I use a fine baiting needle to pull the hair through. The hole through the bait is small enough to grip the loop and knot.

Finally you could drill a wider hole through the bait and pull a bait band through. Drilling a hole though may split the bait.

Any method that pulls something through the bait without anchoring it will allow it to be pulled off without breaking the hair if caught in the landing net.

Hard Pellet

Really much the same as the boily and wafter except that most pellets will sink. An unpumped and thus buoyant expander pellet could be used but will quickly soften and come off the hook.

Most people will put the pellet in a bait band. While I will do this with 4 & 6 mm pellets I drill a hole in 8 mm & larger and pull a bait band through.

One trick with hard pellets is to soak them in vegetable oil before use. This is supposed to slow the breakdown of the pellet in the water. I have found that it can take several weeks for the pellets to fully absorb the oil. So this is is best done in batches and the oiled pellets stored in a leak proof container until there is no visible oil. The pellets don't need to be submerged in oil but given a good coating and then left. Invert the container every few days for the excess oil to reach all the pellets.

Groundbait

There are plenty of commercially made Method groundbaits. I cannot recommend one over another as I don't use them. I can only suggest you try different ones until you find one that works for you and that you find easy to mix to the right consistency, and gets results!

The groundbait should mould to the feeder well, stay on through the cast and on sinking. Once on the bottom it should break down or not as is your preference. I would recommend testing groundbait mixes by filling the feeder and dropping it from height into a bucket of water. Though getting bites when in use is also a good indicator the groundbait is doing what it should.

I make my own groundbait that seems to work. I describe how in this blog post.

https://neilofthenene.blogspot.com/2014/09/bits-bobs-groundbait.html

Feed Pellet Preparation

For me this is simple and done before leaving home in the morning. I just put micro pellets into a tub, put enough water in to just wet the top layer then lid on and leave. A shake of the tub once set up and the pellets are ready.

But I use Skrettings pellets. The very occasional time I have used other brands it has not been that simple. I can only advise you to experiment.

Some people follow the “Minute per mm” guide. So for a two mil micro pellet you soak the pellets for two minutes then drain the water off. 4 minutes for a 4 mil pellet.

One word though on the Skrettings. I did once get a batch of micros that were very light in colour, they are normally dark brown, these pellets went to mush if soaked for too long. So with those I adopted the two minute rule.

Feeder Fishing Commercials Part 1

I have to admit that I find legering boring unless the tip is going round regularly. I much prefer the pole or float fishing on rod & line, but there are days when the feeder is the best option. The following is therefore my way, as always possibly not the best but what I have found effective and works for me.

In this post I will deal with each type of feeder in turn, hookbaits, rods, reels, hooklengths and other matters will be dealt with separately in later posts.

Types of Feeder

There are four basic feeder types that I use: Method, Banjo, Pellet & Hybrid. Each has its uses and, something I find strange, fish can display a preference. On many occasions I have switched from being biteless on one type to catching regularly with another.

At the end of this post is a video link that shows Method, Pellet and Banjo feeders in water discharging their contents. I have not included the Hybrid because I see it as similar to the Banjo in use. A second video shows the feeders being loaded with groundbait or pellets plus hookbait.

There is also the consideration of whether your feeders should be elasticated or free running. Because I fish many venues that ban elasticated feeders I don't own any. That avoids confusion and mistakes. And to add to the debate we have “safe” elasticated feeders that allow a fish to drop the feeder if the mainline breaks. Some fisheries allow these, others just ban all elasticated feeders whether “safe” or not. Always check the water's rules.

As I don't use them I cannot really comment on the benefits of elasticated feeders. And so will not go into detail.

Various companies have brought out quick change systems whereby you can switch from one type or size of feeder to another in seconds without having to break the rig down. I created my own quick change system and so have no great experience of the various types on the market.

As a consequence of the above I will talk about in line, ordinary feeders (not quick change versions) to keep things simple and within my experience. Quick change or not, free running or elasticated the basic ideas remain the same.

Method

The first feeder designed purely for carp fishing on commercial style waters. The original Method feeders were quite crude being a frame around which a large ball of groundbait was moulded and the hookbait incorporated into the outer layer. These balls could be quite large and referred to by some as “coconuts” with good reason.

 

The Original "Emstat" Method Feeders

 

The idea was that the carp would attack the groundbait on the feeder and eventually the hookbait was eaten either by choice or along with a mouthful of groundbait. In either case the weight of the feeder & remaining groundbait caused the hook to take hold and be driven in totally when the fish tried to swim away. This resulted in the now familiar “wrap round” bite.

Since those original feeders The Method has been refined into the flat bed feeders we see today. The idea is still the same, that the hookbait stays in a parcel of groundbait until the feeder has settled on the bottom. Depending on the make up of the groundbait it will either break down fairly quickly leaving a pile with the hookbait visible or stay as a tightly packed parcel that the carp need to attack to get at the hookbait.

 

Flat Bed Method Feeders

 

 

 

 

Pellets can be used on The Method feeder instead of groundbait and indeed there are times when the fish show a preference for one or the other. The problem with pellets is that unless tightly bound together they tend to “explode” off the feeder as it hits the water. Underwater filming has proved this happens. This explosion releases the pellets and the hookbait and ruins the intention of having a pile of free offerings with the hookbait buried in or laying on top of them. This problem can be overcome to some extent by using a binder to hold the pellets together, by using a brand of pellets that naturally bind together tightly or by using a mix of groundbait & pellets.

One absolutely golden rule in fishing The Method is that once it has dropped to the lake bed it must not be moved unless a fish is hooked or it is retrieved to re-cast. Care must be taken in tightening the rod tip to the freshly cast feeder. Some will fish a slack line for this reason, as well as trying to avoid line bites that may move the feeder. Moving the feeder would ruin the intended presentation of hookbait and groundbait/pellet pile in one discrete parcel.

 

Perfection?

 

 

I prefer to load the feeder using a mould. Some people use the palm of their hand. The groundbait can stick in the mould. The solution is to have the mould in a plastic bag so that the plastic lays between groundbait and mould. This way the plastic can be peeled off the groundbait if it sticks.

I also “double skin” my Method feeder when loading. That is I put an initial loading of groundbait into the mould and press this into the feeder. I then load the mould again, place the hookbait on top and squeeze that load onto the feeder. This ensures the bait is buried but not fouling the ribs of the feeder.

Pellet Feeder

Developed, as the name suggests, with the specific intention of being able to fish Method style but with pellets (normally micros) as the attractant instead of groundbait. I admit that the pellet feeder is my go-to Winter leger method for commercials.

Different manufacturers have slightly different styles but the basic principle is that the feeder is shaped like a scoop. The bulk of the pellets are held inside the feeder so that on splashing down they are not dislodged. Once settled in the water the pellets expand and most of them push or fall out of the feeder along with the hookbait.

 

 

Preston Pellet Feeders 

 

To load the pellet feeder I scoop up the micro pellets and compress these with my thumb into the feeder. I then create a small well with index or little finger in the top of the pellets in the feeder. The hookbait goes into the depression made before I apply a further load of pellets and compress these in place. I hope this ensures that when the pellets expand and push the hookbait out it is laying on top of the pellet pile.

Banjo

Probably my second favourite feeder in the group as it is one I have had a lot of success with. Named for its shape the Banjo provides a shallow sided dish in which hookbait and, for me, pellets can be contained. The idea being that like The Method you can deliver a small package of free offerings with a hookbait inside. This is another feeder that should not be moved once cast.

 

 

Banjo Feeder

I have never used groundbait in a Banjo but I suppose there is no reason you shouldn't. The hookbait is not always visible and thus would normally be ingested by the fish when sucking up the pile of pellets. But there are times the fish can prefer one bait over another. No, I cannot fathom that out.

The way I load the feeder is to place the baited hook in the body then cover with soaked micro pellets and squeeze these down with my hand. I then add another layer of pellets and press these in place with my thumbs. Do not be afraid of pressing really hard. Surprisingly the pellets will rebound once in the water.

For the following explanation consider the circular body of the feeder as a clock face. Mentally divide the clock into four quarter hours, 12-3, 3-6, 6-9, 9-12. I place my two thumbs in opposing quarters e.g. 12-3, 6-9 and press. I then do the same with the other two quarters and repeat six or seven times. The video shows this in action.

This is sufficient to ensure the bait stays in the feeder until it has settled on the lake bed.

Hybrid

As the name suggests this is a combination of two feeder types, Method and Banjo. To be honest I have never really worked out what is different about the Hybrid from the Banjo other than the shape and some holes in the side & base. It is probably a confidence thing but I have not yet had any great success using a hybrid feeder. Use and loading are similar to both the feeders it is hybridised from. So “Don't move the feeder!” once settled.

Attaching the Feeder and Hooklength

With any form of inline feeder the line passes through a central hollow stem. There will then be a bead or swivel to stop the feeder from running down to the hook. In the case of the quick change systems I mentioned the stem is a separate item to the feeder body. One stem fits in the various feeders in the range enabling the body to be swapped quickly and even be replaced by a plain leger weight.

I created my own “quick change” system before the commercial varieties were available. I have stayed with it purely because the commercially made systems do not include bodies of all four types I use. My system is simple and employs the Drennan Method Connector. These connectors are made of a central barrel with a hook at each end like a Stonfo elastic connector and a sleeve that slides over the barrel to trap the line in place on the hooks. One hook holds the main line, the other the hooklength.

 

 

Drennan Method Connector

 

I tie a large loop in the end of the main line, anything from four to six inches long. I then pass this loop through the feeder stem and add the Method Connector. It is then a case of adding the hooklength. To swap feeders I only have to remove the mainline from the connector, pull it out of the feeder, feed it through the new feeder and re-attach to the connector and I am good to go.

It can be a little fiddly getting the loop through the feeder stem as you need to twizzle it in your fingers to make a small end to pass through the tail rubber hole. If this is difficult then when tying the loop leave a long tag end and use this to feed through the stem and pull the loop through after.

Note re banjo feeders.  You may need to add a bead between the connector and the feeder as the central part of the connector can just fit inside the stem of the banjo feeder.  The bead prevents the connector from being pulled into the stem.

As in all forms of legering using a free running feeder you need a way of stopping the feeder running all the way to the hook and also a way of connecting the hooklength.  You could use a traditional swivel with a snap link for the hooklength.  If bait spinning up and twisting the hooklength is a problem then this still is a suitable method.  But today we have various quick change beads like the Drennan above.  I think they all include some kind of hook and sleeve arrangement like a pole Stonfo.  I prefer the Drennan's purely because they can be disconnected from both sides.  Many other quick change beads have to be tied to the reel line.

I have also mentioned incorporating a bead above the connector or swivel purely as an added buffer for the feeder.  It is personal choice whether to include one in your set up.  
 

Videos

 

The following is a link to a YouTube video showing Method, pellet & banjo feeders discharging their contents in water.  You can also see how the Method Connector is used.

 

Method, pellet and banjo feeders in action

 

The following shows how I load these feeders

 

Loading Method, pellet & banjo feeders

 

 

 

The Flat or Lollipop Float

Flat Floats

A recent online discussion regarding flat or lollipop floats together with my own rediscovery of river fishing using these has prompted me to write on the subject.

Flat floats were designed specifically for fishing a flowing water, that could be a river or canal that flows. I think originally conceived on the continent to me they are one of the best recent angling inventions alongside Baitrunner reels and Stotz.

 

 

The picture on the left shows the float's profile in the direction of the flow.  The picture on the right shows the side on view.  Other designs of flat float are various shapes but follow the same basic design idea of having a slim profile against the flow.

The flat float is really a pole equivalent of the stick float. Both are designed to fish in and combat the effects of flowing water. And indeed there is no reason why either float should not be used on pole or rod. I came third in my first ever match on the river Trent (Winthorpe) fishing a stick float on my then state of the art 7m fibreglass telescopic pole. The benefit of the pole and flat float is that you can fish much further out with a pole than a rod.

The Science Behind the Design

To understand the logic, and theory behind the flat float I will need to go over some science.

I think most anglers understand that the very bottom layers of the flow in a river are slower than the surface, but by how much? Experimentation has shown that a river's average flow occurs at 0.6 of its depth at any given point. Thus if the river is ten foot deep then the average flow will be six foot below the surface, and for a five foot deep river it will be at three foot deep. As the river shallows towards each bank this average point too gets shallower but remains at 0.6 of the depth.

In practical terms this means that in our ten foot deep river the flow in the bottom four feet of water will be at least 50% slower than the water on the surface. And towards the very bottom will be slower still. It is this major difference that the flat float was designed to combat.

I think we can safely assume that our optimum catching potential will occur when we match the bait's speed to the flow at whatever depth we are presenting that bait. Though fish show signs of not be logical at times and will take a bait when it is moving faster than the flow or is even stationary in it. This is where the angler's skill and ability to read what is happening comes to the fore.

Assuming though that our aim is to present a bait as near to the natural flow rate as possible then for me the flat float is the ideal tool.

The design is obvious in its intention. To provide a minimal amount of cross section area to the flow while carrying enough weight to combat the higher flow rate in the top 60% of the depth. Hence the shape and the necessity to carry a heavy load, up to 50 grammes (2 ounces) or more in some cases. Some of the larger floats have shoulders to utilise the flow to push and hold the float underwater.

To carry the same loading a normal bodied float would need to have a comparatively huge cross section presented to the flow and this would cause problems in float control and reading of bites. In turn this may mean that a normal float might need to carry a much bigger loading than a flat float to achieve the same degree of sensitivity and presentation. Stick floats attempted to overcome this by using a heavy wood in the bottom half such as lignum vitae or even metal stems.

Shotting & Hooklength

I prefer to use an olivette that is in the region of three quarters of the float's stated loading. So a 0.7 or 0.75g olivette would go on a 1g float. This gives me enough spare capacity to lock the Olivette (inline), droppers and spare shot to add to the droppers if I feel it necessary. To start with I will place the olivette a foot above my hooklength and then add two No.8 droppers below that. The remaining shot will be added around the olivette but with more below than above. These spares can be slid down to increase the weight of the droppers.

I will also seek to overshot the float on the day so that it has to be held back for the bristle to show above the surface. Different flow rates will dictate a difference in the amount you need to overshot.

My hooklength is ten inches. This allows me to go nearly that much overdepth if required. A longer hooklength may, at times, be useful.

Fishing the Float

The ideal I am trying to achieve is to have the float bristle vertical while the float is held stationary. This tells me the bulk shotting, the olivette, is just about directly beneath the float and in turn indicates that the bait should be near the bottom and ahead of the float. The following diagram shows what I mean.

The diagram also shows what could be or is happening underwater when the bristle is not vertical.

 

 

If the bristle is not at or near vertical but leaning back towards the rod/pole when held back then a heavier float is required. Really only trial and error will tell you how heavy a float you need on your local river for different conditions. On the river Nene I use a 1 or 2g float. In times of flood I may need heavier, but then I wouldn't be fishing the river.

Once I am happy that the float is fishing as I wish then I can start to experiment on exactly how the fish want the bait presented. For those that have fished a stick float then the process is much the same with a flat float. The float can be held hard back in one position, the very bottom layers may be almost stationary and thus the fish are picking up static feed and bait. The float may need to be inched through such that if the bottom layer of water is moving slowly the bait is matching it. I may let the float run so that it sinks then reappears as the olivette catches it up and the line below runs through and gets ahead. A combination of all three should see the angler getting indications as to which is best on the day or even in that hour.

Bites can be any indication on the float, a dip, lift or stopping if running through.  Lift into any change in the float's behaviour.

Storage

You may wonder how to store flat floats as they will not sit neatly on a winder.  The solution is to attach the float by way of four pieces of silicone tubing and not thread the line through the float's eye.  That way the rig minus float can be stored on marked winders and the floats in a suitable storage box.  For my 1 & 2g floats I use an old videocassette case. 

Doing this can also aid changing floats if light conditions change and demand a different colour bristle.  I have red, yellow & black bristled versions.

It is also worth using more line on the rig than you would for a Stillwater.  You may want as much as six foot of line, possibly even more, so that the float can be run a fair distance down your swim.

Acknowledgement

I have to thank various others from whom I have picked up hints and tips on these floats, particularly storing them.  My main source is

https://www.maggotdrowning.com/forums/index.php



 

More Bits, Bobs and Tips

Having written about a few things I make or use and tips & tricks a few years ago I thought do should do an update.

Blackout

Although I find that for 99% of my fishing a red or yellow bristle on my pole floats is fine there are those rare occasions when a black tip will show up better. But I find it annoying when the sun shifts, clouds appear or something else changes and the black may not then be the right colour. Obviously the simple answer is to have two rigs made up with different colour bristles. This though is possibly not practical or something that someone with a limited number of topkits can do.

My simple answer is to only black the top half of the bristle. This means the base colour can still be seen if you remove some shot and thus more bristle is out of the water.

 

 

Despite having more bristle out of the water when the red is showing this does not affect bites as you are looking to react when the red disappears, not the whole bristle.

 

Too Many Expanders?

How many of us are guilty of preparing too many expanders for a day's fishing? OK, I know you can argue that they don't cost much and I admit to being, let's say prudent with money. But I hate waste. So I sorted out a simple method to prepare enough but no too many for a session.

Elsewhere ( http://neilofthenene.blogspot.com/2014_06_01_archive.html) I explain that I prepare my expanders at home in batches, with gelatine and keep them in the freezer. I have worked out that 50 expanders, of one size, are plenty for a day's fishing, sometimes even two. Though I always take a full pot to matches (just in case I have a stellar day), leftovers get re-frozen for pleasure sessions.

Counting out pellets each time you want to prepare some is a pain. So I stole an idea from The Boss's occasional job as a dispenser of medicines, specifically pills. Dispensers use a triangular tray marked so that without counting you know how many pills are on the tray. I just used an old cereal box, cut the corner out to produce a triangular tray with a lip round two sides. I then counted out 50 four mil expanders and arranged them in a one layer quadrant in the corner of the tray and drew a line around. I did the same with 6mils.

 

 

 

This means that when filled to the appropriate line, one layer deep, I know I have 50 pellets.

 

 

For Summer I will take 50 each of 4 & 6 mil as a mixture in one tub. Winter it will be 2s & 4s.

Spring Clamp

One of the odd non-angling things I carry is a 4 ½ inch spring clamp. Cheap as chips from Wilkinsons and has a few uses. Its main use is as a rod rest either on the edge of a platform, bucket or even top of a keepnet.

As I don't use a footplate or feeder arm I needed something simple to carry that would enable the rod to rest up against and realised this style of clamp fitted the bill. I always have my bucket with me, I find it useful for carrying odd bits and pieces and throwing things like litter into. The clamp sits on the edge of the bucket most of the time so it is easily to hand.

The pictures below show how I use it. And just for interest I have also included a picture showing how I occasionally use a pair of pole over/under rests for a feeder rod.

 

 

Note my watch under the rod, I talk about that later.

 

 

 

 

Freezing Maggots

I only use dead maggots on the hook and so don't freeze in large numbers. The following is about what I do to get a good result when defrosting.

People sometimes complain about their defrosted maggots turning black quickly. To understand why that happens I need to explain a bit of the science of freezing. Essentially you are freezing the water in whatever it is you are freezing. The slower the freezing process the larger the ice crystals that will form, the opposite of course being that faster equals smaller crystals. Large crystals destroy the internal structures of whatever you are freezing, small crystals do less damage. This is why you cannot normally freeze strawberries successfully in a home freezer.

If it takes too long for our maggots to freeze then their internal structures will be destroyed by the large ice crystals that will form and thus turn black on defrosting. The answer to successfully freezing maggots is therefore to get them to freeze quickly. To achieve that I do two things.

First is to freeze in small batches and by that I mean enough for a day's hookbait so in volume terms no more than 100mil. Second is to use either the fast freeze drawer if your freezer has one or place the maggots directly on the coolant channels at the bottom of the freezer.

This way I have never had maggots go black and I don't need to store them in water on my side tray. In fact I will re-freeze the leftovers and they are fine for another session.

I used to put my “daypack” of maggots in small foodbags. Then I realised that the small pots I get mayonnaise in when I order a pizza are the ideal size for a day's fishing.

Right Feeder?

I fished a match a couple of days before writing this and it demonstrated, to good effect, the advice about feeders I was intending to write.

I have noticed on more than a few occasions how using the right feeder can make a huge difference to your catch. In the match I fished I started on a hybrid feeder and had no bites. I switched to a pellet feeder and had one fish. I then tried a banjo feeder and that transformed my match. I started to pick up fish regularly and clawed my way to third. Had I stubbornly stuck to one type of feeder I doubt I would have framed.

So to me it is important to carry a range of feeders both in size and type and be prepared to switch around if you are not catching.

The easiest way to do this is have two feeder rods. You can be changing feeder on one while the other is in the water. In one of my other blog posts I have described my quick change system (http://neilofthenene.blogspot.com/2014/11/tips-tricks-hints.html)  or you can invest in one of the now readily available systems from the major manufacturers. Changing feeders or even to a straight lead takes less than a minute and is well worth the effort.

 

These are the range of feeders I have in my box at the moment.  I really need to get the other two sizes of hybrid feeders.  Of course really dedicated feeder anglers will carry a wider selection. 

 

 

Right Time?

Continuing on the legering theme. I always time my leger casts as demonstrated in the earlier picture and having recently heard Steve Ringer (feeder World Champion) say he does the same. Not only do I then know how long my feeder has been in the water but I can also spot if bites come after a particular length of time. For example, in the match I referred to above bites were coming at around four minutes after casting.

Why is knowing this important? In that match I knew I was wasting time if I had not had a bite after five minutes. It was more efficient to re-cast after five minutes and get a bite some nine to ten minutes after the first cast rather than leave the first cast out biteless for fifteen minutes. If I had not had a bite in this time I had to suspect something was wrong with the feeder or hookbait preventing a bite, so best to re-cast rather than fish on with a poorly presented bait.

Once you have established if there is a timing pattern to your bites you can adjust your casting frequency accordingly. Similarly, if the water has a strong tow then it is pointless fishing beyond five minutes as the groundbait or pellets will have been washed away from your hookbait.

In Winter I like to leave the first couple of casts fifteen minutes and often find bites come between 12 & 14 minutes.  But time seems to drag for me when legering and I can quite easily think that a real elapsed time of five minutes feels like 15. By using a watch I can leave the cast for a true 15 minutes before recasting.

Shot Stopper

I became frustrated with my Stotz holder sliding around in my seatbox drawer and somehow always ending up at the back of the drawer. I came up with a simple solution.

From eBay I got a length of self adhesive flexible magnetic strip. By sticking one part to two sides of the box in a corner and another two to the Stotz holder the holder now stays in place unless I want to remove it.

 

I did find the original adhesive didn't do the job and so both sets of strips on the holder and drawer have been superglued in place.  This stuff comes in various widths, I would recommend something around 12mm.  This gives a stronger hold between the two strips than the thinner 10mm version.

 

Also be careful when fitting.  The strips, if lined up against each other can offset slightly due to the arrangement of the magnetic poles in the strip.  So I glued one strip to the Stotz holder then offered up the strip that would go on the drawer, got that positioned correctly then with the strips sticking together on the holder applied the glue and used the holder to press the drawer strips into place.  This gives a perfect alignment and the strongest attraction between the two strips. 

 

 

 

 

Keeping Warm (On a Budget)

I realise that many anglers find fishing in the Winter months difficult due to the cold. But for those wishing to get out I thought I would offer my insights into staying comfortable when on the bank. And where possible, not having to spend a lot doing so.  But you cannot cut corners on some of the gear you need.

Personally I have no difficulty in fishing in the depths of Winter and actually enjoy breaking the ice on the canal and then catching without the nuisance of boats. Similarly rain does not bother me either. With the right clothing and accessories you can have a comfortable day. But so many Winter days are dry, calm and sunny that you don't have to brave the worst weather in order to go fishing in Winter.

I must mention here that I have not used an umbrella for several years. I just got tired of it getting in the way, water dripping off the rib ends just where it is least convenient and comfortable, the wind never coming from the “right” direction, the constant worry of it taking off, breaking pole and or rod or turning inside out and the extra weight of lugging one around is something I can do without.

Instead I rely on a decent waterproof suit.

Footwear

I have used SkeeTex boots since they first appeared on an angler's feet. The originals were bright blue because they were made for use in frozen food warehouses. I still recall my first sight of them at a frosty match draw on the river Lee in London. Everyone was laughing at the guy wearing them as they were bright blue and looked ten sizes too big. He had the last laugh though when he explained that he wasn't even wearing socks. I think more anglers than me went home realising that we had just seen a mighty leap forward in Winter angling footwear. I soon acquired my own pair.

In my opinion those early blue models were slightly superior to the current ones we now get. I don't remember ever having cold feet in them. Today, on really cold days I do find my toes get slightly chilly. Though this could be because some forty years have elapsed and perhaps my circulation isn't what it was when I was in my twenties. I am not sure if the inner sole is as good an insulator as the originals. But For 99% of the time they keep me comfortable.

Some find them difficult to walk in, I don't. You just have to adapt.

One thing though is that you don't need thick socks with them, it is better for your toes to have wiggle room.  And always remove the liners and dry them when you get home.  Remove the insole as well to allow the boot to dry.  Nothing shortens the life of the liner quicker than leaving them damp.  And replacements are not cheap. 

The outdoor Winter sportsman is though now well catered for and there are several excellent (by all reports) boots available. None will be cheap but will pay for themselves if you are able to fish more effectively because your feet are not cold.

One last mention about footwear. I have heard excellent reports about socks called Sealskinz. They are said to be waterproof and made for climbers, runners and cyclists. Like all top grade gear they appear not to be cheap (£40+) but if effective may well be worth the initial outlay. A pair may just be on my Christmas list this year (2018). I am told that they come in varying degrees of “warmness”. Not all are intended to keep the feet warm but dry. Apparently you need to look for those with a “5” warmth rating.

Trousers

I find that with a decent bib & brace I get away with just an ordinary pair of jeans and no need for base layer leggings underneath. I'll mention outerwear later.

Tops

I layer up in Winter. Base layer next to the skin is a sweat wicking undershirt of a man-made fibre. Mine was bought several years ago in the USA (Michigan), where in the north of the country they know a thing or two about cold weather. It was, unsurprisingly for me, a cheaper non-brand name make, probably got from a WalMart store or similar. I guess that Under Armour is currently seen as the market leader in such clothing, and have a price tag to match. You may find something similar on eBay for a lot less. I have just done a quick search and found a Gildan brand long sleeve sweat wicking tee for just over £7. I have had Gildan sports socks in the past and they have been excellent so I personally would trust the brand to produce a decent base layer tee shirt.

If the weather is not going to be that cold then I will use a long sleeve “thermal” tee shirt obtained from Asda for £8, I noticed recently Primark doing something similar for £5.

The next layer is a tee shirt or polo shirt. Nothing special.

Depending on the day I will then wear one of three hoodies. The first is a lightweight long sleeve tee type. A thin material but enough to add warmth with the hood up. I have two, both from Lidl and costing around £5. One has an ordinary neck, the other a roll or cowl type neck that can help to keep drafts out.

Then I have a normal jersey hoodie. Thicker and for colder and windy days. Again I use one of two. One is emblazoned with my club name, Osprey, and on the back a stylised osprey print. The second is my Maggotdrowning.com hoodie.

Finally I have really heavyweight hoodie that again was picked up in the USA. I have not though seen anything like it in this country.

Outer Layers - Bottom

Despite the fact that I like to save money elsewhere I don't think you should necessarily look to do so with what I consider the most important layer, certainly not if you need waterproof clothing.

For the bottom half it is a decent bib & brace. For several years I used an all in one suit but found that I got too hot on the days when it wasn't so cold or was sunny. Many years ago my then fishing buddy and myself discovered the benefits of wearing an all in one suit. But in those days it wasn't a specialist piece of angling clothing, just a boiler suit. But the difference even that made was noticeable.

My current B&B is Korum and I actually have three. One is older and in heavy rain will let some water through but is otherwise sound and so is used on dry days. Last year in my local tackle shop I was enquiring about a new B&B and they mentioned having some Korum ones that they were knocking out at well below normal price. Reason given was that Korum was changing its logo and had let some shops have the old stock at a good price. The price was so good I bought two.

Using the new one only in the worst weather will prolong its life thus saving money in the long run.

Some anglers have discovered that ski salopettes make decent fishing clothes and can be obtained at a reasonable price from Go Outdoors, and I assume eBay. I have also noticed reasonably priced sailing salopettes in Decathlon. So two shops and sports to check out if you are on a budget.

Again, looking outside our own branch of the sport can deliver suitable clothing at affordable prices. Imax make sea fishing clothing and their Thermal Suit can be had for a price that many of the top coarse brands would charge for just the bib & brace.

Outer Layers - Coats

I use a variety of coats depending on the predicted weather.

If it is not going to be too cold then I have a jacket that has a fleece inner and an outer nylon shell. The nylon helps keep sleeves dry when unhooking fish in the net. It doesn't have a hood but as long as it is dry that's not an issue. It came free with the last pole I bought in 2011 and is now showing signs of its age. Finding a replacement has been difficult.

For colder but dry days I use a TuffStuff Buckland jacket. This was sold by workwear retailers and mine cost less than £30, half the price of a fishing branded similar garment. Searching now it looks like it has been discontinued but I'm sure they will have replaced it with something similar. Designed obviously for builders and the like working outside it has a tough outer and quilted lining though again, no hood. It is as warm as toast. An added benefit is that the front pockets are huge and easily accessed. Great for keeping handwarmers in and your hands in when legering. So if you are looking for inexpensive clothing for fishing in the chillier months then I can say no more than search the workwear sellers on the internet for similar jackets.

If it is going to be wet most of the day then I have a full length, Dryfish coat. Waterproof, hooded and well padded. It is well worth buying a good coat of this type. But if you only wear it a few days each year it will last ages.

If showers are predicted I take my Summer weight unlined waterproof coat and wear it when needed over either the fleece or Buckland jacket.

Gloves

I use knitted “woollen” fingerless gloves. You are never going to keep your hands completely dry and warm when fishing. I have tried neoprene gloves but for me they are just too bulky and constricting. The knitted ones keep most of my hand warm even if they get wet. The point being that they keep any wind off the skin.

Snood/Balaclava/Hat

It is amazing how just having something round your neck on really cold days keeps you a lot warmer. I have a couple of polo neck shirts but for some reason a snood seems to work better.

I have two. The first I got is just a tube of fleece that pulls over the head and round the neck. Cost about £2 off eBay. It has a drawstring that allows one end to be closed turning it into a hat if necessary. It also has an added benefit.

There are days when the wind is coming straight at you and getting under your hood. I don't like the constriction of tying a hood's drawstring under my chin but what I have found is that if you pull the hood up and then put the snood on round your neck over the hoodie it tightens the hood around the face without the feeling of being tied up.

The second snood is one that can be used as a balaclava as well as an ordinary snood round the neck. On really cold days I have found this invaluable. Wearing both this one and the tube one keeps me snug. The balaclava will go over my baseball cap and so also help keep that secure when windy. This type can be had quite cheaply for around £4 either from eBay of a store like B&M.

Once the cold weather comes these two live in my carryall and so never forgotten.

 

As for hats I usually wear just a baseball cap.  Main reason is that I find the brightness of the sky, even on a dull day, is distracting.  Also if wet the peak keeps the rain off my glasses.  But if it is really cold then I may wear a beanie type hat.  Of course my hood goes over the top of whatever is on my head. 

Flask & Cup

I have had a cheap Wilkinson's flask for several years. 1 litre and does the job perfectly. Getting a hot drink inside you on a cold day certainly helps.

I only ever take hot water. I know some people prefer tea or coffee, even soup, in their flask. I have never liked hot drinks from a flask so I take hot water and Bovril cubes. That way I can make a drink up as I need it. I prefer Bovril to Oxo as the latter seems to leave a white residue in the bottom of the cup. The added benefit of using just water is that if forgotten the flask does not go mouldy inside!

I always pre-warm the flask before filling with boiling water.

If you do have the problem of a manky flask then the best solution is to use a denture tablet or even two to sterilise and clean it out. Just fill with cold water, add the tablet and leave overnight. And if you get limescale then pour in some vinegar and top up with water again leave overnight.

I take three or four Bovril cubes in a plastic container with a tight fitting lid, along with the Bovril is a small spoon and a piece of kitchen roll just to keep things clean. That container goes in a small lunch bag (came free with a box of cornflakes) and in the bag I also have an insulated travel mug. Once I have dissolved the Bovril on the flask's cup I transfer the liquid to the travel mug and top up with hot water and put the lid on. I find the Bovril dissolves quicker if crumbled into smaller pieces before adding the water.

As any angler knows you always get a bite when you open your flask so the travel mug helps keep the drink hot while you land the fish.

Food

I always have food with me in Winter. Two sausage rolls and a chocolate bar or two. Nothing nicer than sausage roll and hot Bovril. And the chocolate is a welcome treat on a cold day and nice to have when you get back in the car at the end of the session.

Lap Towel

For years now I have worn a towel round my waist Winter and Summer so why specifically mention it in this article? I have found that you can drape the towel over your hands when pole fishing in order to keep any wind off and thus they will be warmer. You can also do the same when legering if your pockets are difficult to access and get hands out of quickly.

I use a small hand or guest towel to which I sew half a bootlace halfway along each of the longer sides and that allows me to tie the towel round my waist. That way you have a double thickness of towel that on busy days can be reversed or folded over to access a drier layer or on cold days provides that bit of extra protection to the hands.

Handwarmers

I use the “magic gel” type. The ones that you snap a metal disk in to activate and boil for a few minutes to recharge. They are easily cleaned, no mess and no smell. I carry around six. Each one will last about 45 minutes and are a welcome comfort on cold days.

Be careful when buying them though. The smaller ones only last around 20 minutes. Most of mine are larger and cost around £3 or £5 for two. They come in a red box and the actual handwarmer has “Magic Gel” printed on it in white writing on a black background along with the instructions. Amazon or eBay is where you will find them.

 

Be careful though, if left boiling on the stove and the water boils away The Boss is not happy with the mess it makes of her saucepan!

Finally

Winter fishing, even with snow on the ground and ice on the water can be rewarding. It is worth braving the elements for the sense of achievement of having survived a day in the wild outdoors :-).

Seriously, if you are going out for a pleasure session and it is cold then look for a spot where you will be comfortable. That may be with trees providing shelter from the wind or with the wind at your back, particularly if you are using an umbrella. Note the position of the sun and where it will track during the day. Choosing what will be a sunny spot later will make you a lot warmer than sitting in shade all day.

Also it pays to know where fish are regularly caught when cold. I know that I can go to the canal at Foxton near Market Harborough (Wellingborough club water) and be guaranteed to catch even if I have to break the ice. No point in going somewhere that I will struggle.

If you are not comfortable you will not fish well so choosing the right spot can make a difference.

Having the right clothing, a flask, food and being prepared for the elements will ensure you will be as comfortable as possible in poor conditions.