Feeder Fishing Commercials Part 1

I have to admit that I find legering boring unless the tip is going round regularly. I much prefer the pole or float fishing on rod & line, but there are days when the feeder is the best option. The following is therefore my way, as always possibly not the best but what I have found effective and works for me.

In this post I will deal with each type of feeder in turn, hookbaits, rods, reels, hooklengths and other matters will be dealt with separately in later posts.

Types of Feeder

There are four basic feeder types that I use: Method, Banjo, Pellet & Hybrid. Each has its uses and, something I find strange, fish can display a preference. On many occasions I have switched from being biteless on one type to catching regularly with another.

At the end of this post is a video link that shows Method, Pellet and Banjo feeders in water discharging their contents. I have not included the Hybrid because I see it as similar to the Banjo in use. A second video shows the feeders being loaded with groundbait or pellets plus hookbait.

There is also the consideration of whether your feeders should be elasticated or free running. Because I fish many venues that ban elasticated feeders I don't own any. That avoids confusion and mistakes. And to add to the debate we have “safe” elasticated feeders that allow a fish to drop the feeder if the mainline breaks. Some fisheries allow these, others just ban all elasticated feeders whether “safe” or not. Always check the water's rules.

As I don't use them I cannot really comment on the benefits of elasticated feeders. And so will not go into detail.

Various companies have brought out quick change systems whereby you can switch from one type or size of feeder to another in seconds without having to break the rig down. I created my own quick change system and so have no great experience of the various types on the market.

As a consequence of the above I will talk about in line, ordinary feeders (not quick change versions) to keep things simple and within my experience. Quick change or not, free running or elasticated the basic ideas remain the same.

Method

The first feeder designed purely for carp fishing on commercial style waters. The original Method feeders were quite crude being a frame around which a large ball of groundbait was moulded and the hookbait incorporated into the outer layer. These balls could be quite large and referred to by some as “coconuts” with good reason.

 

The Original "Emstat" Method Feeders

 

The idea was that the carp would attack the groundbait on the feeder and eventually the hookbait was eaten either by choice or along with a mouthful of groundbait. In either case the weight of the feeder & remaining groundbait caused the hook to take hold and be driven in totally when the fish tried to swim away. This resulted in the now familiar “wrap round” bite.

Since those original feeders The Method has been refined into the flat bed feeders we see today. The idea is still the same, that the hookbait stays in a parcel of groundbait until the feeder has settled on the bottom. Depending on the make up of the groundbait it will either break down fairly quickly leaving a pile with the hookbait visible or stay as a tightly packed parcel that the carp need to attack to get at the hookbait.

 

Flat Bed Method Feeders

 

 

 

 

Pellets can be used on The Method feeder instead of groundbait and indeed there are times when the fish show a preference for one or the other. The problem with pellets is that unless tightly bound together they tend to “explode” off the feeder as it hits the water. Underwater filming has proved this happens. This explosion releases the pellets and the hookbait and ruins the intention of having a pile of free offerings with the hookbait buried in or laying on top of them. This problem can be overcome to some extent by using a binder to hold the pellets together, by using a brand of pellets that naturally bind together tightly or by using a mix of groundbait & pellets.

One absolutely golden rule in fishing The Method is that once it has dropped to the lake bed it must not be moved unless a fish is hooked or it is retrieved to re-cast. Care must be taken in tightening the rod tip to the freshly cast feeder. Some will fish a slack line for this reason, as well as trying to avoid line bites that may move the feeder. Moving the feeder would ruin the intended presentation of hookbait and groundbait/pellet pile in one discrete parcel.

 

Perfection?

 

 

I prefer to load the feeder using a mould. Some people use the palm of their hand. The groundbait can stick in the mould. The solution is to have the mould in a plastic bag so that the plastic lays between groundbait and mould. This way the plastic can be peeled off the groundbait if it sticks.

I also “double skin” my Method feeder when loading. That is I put an initial loading of groundbait into the mould and press this into the feeder. I then load the mould again, place the hookbait on top and squeeze that load onto the feeder. This ensures the bait is buried but not fouling the ribs of the feeder.

Pellet Feeder

Developed, as the name suggests, with the specific intention of being able to fish Method style but with pellets (normally micros) as the attractant instead of groundbait. I admit that the pellet feeder is my go-to Winter leger method for commercials.

Different manufacturers have slightly different styles but the basic principle is that the feeder is shaped like a scoop. The bulk of the pellets are held inside the feeder so that on splashing down they are not dislodged. Once settled in the water the pellets expand and most of them push or fall out of the feeder along with the hookbait.

 

 

Preston Pellet Feeders 

 

To load the pellet feeder I scoop up the micro pellets and compress these with my thumb into the feeder. I then create a small well with index or little finger in the top of the pellets in the feeder. The hookbait goes into the depression made before I apply a further load of pellets and compress these in place. I hope this ensures that when the pellets expand and push the hookbait out it is laying on top of the pellet pile.

Banjo

Probably my second favourite feeder in the group as it is one I have had a lot of success with. Named for its shape the Banjo provides a shallow sided dish in which hookbait and, for me, pellets can be contained. The idea being that like The Method you can deliver a small package of free offerings with a hookbait inside. This is another feeder that should not be moved once cast.

 

 

Banjo Feeder

I have never used groundbait in a Banjo but I suppose there is no reason you shouldn't. The hookbait is not always visible and thus would normally be ingested by the fish when sucking up the pile of pellets. But there are times the fish can prefer one bait over another. No, I cannot fathom that out.

The way I load the feeder is to place the baited hook in the body then cover with soaked micro pellets and squeeze these down with my hand. I then add another layer of pellets and press these in place with my thumbs. Do not be afraid of pressing really hard. Surprisingly the pellets will rebound once in the water.

For the following explanation consider the circular body of the feeder as a clock face. Mentally divide the clock into four quarter hours, 12-3, 3-6, 6-9, 9-12. I place my two thumbs in opposing quarters e.g. 12-3, 6-9 and press. I then do the same with the other two quarters and repeat six or seven times. The video shows this in action.

This is sufficient to ensure the bait stays in the feeder until it has settled on the lake bed.

Hybrid

As the name suggests this is a combination of two feeder types, Method and Banjo. To be honest I have never really worked out what is different about the Hybrid from the Banjo other than the shape and some holes in the side & base. It is probably a confidence thing but I have not yet had any great success using a hybrid feeder. Use and loading are similar to both the feeders it is hybridised from. So “Don't move the feeder!” once settled.

Attaching the Feeder and Hooklength

With any form of inline feeder the line passes through a central hollow stem. There will then be a bead or swivel to stop the feeder from running down to the hook. In the case of the quick change systems I mentioned the stem is a separate item to the feeder body. One stem fits in the various feeders in the range enabling the body to be swapped quickly and even be replaced by a plain leger weight.

I created my own “quick change” system before the commercial varieties were available. I have stayed with it purely because the commercially made systems do not include bodies of all four types I use. My system is simple and employs the Drennan Method Connector. These connectors are made of a central barrel with a hook at each end like a Stonfo elastic connector and a sleeve that slides over the barrel to trap the line in place on the hooks. One hook holds the main line, the other the hooklength.

 

 

Drennan Method Connector

 

I tie a large loop in the end of the main line, anything from four to six inches long. I then pass this loop through the feeder stem and add the Method Connector. It is then a case of adding the hooklength. To swap feeders I only have to remove the mainline from the connector, pull it out of the feeder, feed it through the new feeder and re-attach to the connector and I am good to go.

It can be a little fiddly getting the loop through the feeder stem as you need to twizzle it in your fingers to make a small end to pass through the tail rubber hole. If this is difficult then when tying the loop leave a long tag end and use this to feed through the stem and pull the loop through after.

Note re banjo feeders.  You may need to add a bead between the connector and the feeder as the central part of the connector can just fit inside the stem of the banjo feeder.  The bead prevents the connector from being pulled into the stem.

As in all forms of legering using a free running feeder you need a way of stopping the feeder running all the way to the hook and also a way of connecting the hooklength.  You could use a traditional swivel with a snap link for the hooklength.  If bait spinning up and twisting the hooklength is a problem then this still is a suitable method.  But today we have various quick change beads like the Drennan above.  I think they all include some kind of hook and sleeve arrangement like a pole Stonfo.  I prefer the Drennan's purely because they can be disconnected from both sides.  Many other quick change beads have to be tied to the reel line.

I have also mentioned incorporating a bead above the connector or swivel purely as an added buffer for the feeder.  It is personal choice whether to include one in your set up.  
 

Videos

 

The following is a link to a YouTube video showing Method, pellet & banjo feeders discharging their contents in water.  You can also see how the Method Connector is used.

 

Method, pellet and banjo feeders in action

 

The following shows how I load these feeders

 

Loading Method, pellet & banjo feeders

 

 

 

The Flat or Lollipop Float

Flat Floats

A recent online discussion regarding flat or lollipop floats together with my own rediscovery of river fishing using these has prompted me to write on the subject.

Flat floats were designed specifically for fishing a flowing water, that could be a river or canal that flows. I think originally conceived on the continent to me they are one of the best recent angling inventions alongside Baitrunner reels and Stotz.

 

 

The picture on the left shows the float's profile in the direction of the flow.  The picture on the right shows the side on view.  Other designs of flat float are various shapes but follow the same basic design idea of having a slim profile against the flow.

The flat float is really a pole equivalent of the stick float. Both are designed to fish in and combat the effects of flowing water. And indeed there is no reason why either float should not be used on pole or rod. I came third in my first ever match on the river Trent (Winthorpe) fishing a stick float on my then state of the art 7m fibreglass telescopic pole. The benefit of the pole and flat float is that you can fish much further out with a pole than a rod.

The Science Behind the Design

To understand the logic, and theory behind the flat float I will need to go over some science.

I think most anglers understand that the very bottom layers of the flow in a river are slower than the surface, but by how much? Experimentation has shown that a river's average flow occurs at 0.6 of its depth at any given point. Thus if the river is ten foot deep then the average flow will be six foot below the surface, and for a five foot deep river it will be at three foot deep. As the river shallows towards each bank this average point too gets shallower but remains at 0.6 of the depth.

In practical terms this means that in our ten foot deep river the flow in the bottom four feet of water will be at least 50% slower than the water on the surface. And towards the very bottom will be slower still. It is this major difference that the flat float was designed to combat.

I think we can safely assume that our optimum catching potential will occur when we match the bait's speed to the flow at whatever depth we are presenting that bait. Though fish show signs of not be logical at times and will take a bait when it is moving faster than the flow or is even stationary in it. This is where the angler's skill and ability to read what is happening comes to the fore.

Assuming though that our aim is to present a bait as near to the natural flow rate as possible then for me the flat float is the ideal tool.

The design is obvious in its intention. To provide a minimal amount of cross section area to the flow while carrying enough weight to combat the higher flow rate in the top 60% of the depth. Hence the shape and the necessity to carry a heavy load, up to 50 grammes (2 ounces) or more in some cases. Some of the larger floats have shoulders to utilise the flow to push and hold the float underwater.

To carry the same loading a normal bodied float would need to have a comparatively huge cross section presented to the flow and this would cause problems in float control and reading of bites. In turn this may mean that a normal float might need to carry a much bigger loading than a flat float to achieve the same degree of sensitivity and presentation. Stick floats attempted to overcome this by using a heavy wood in the bottom half such as lignum vitae or even metal stems.

Shotting & Hooklength

I prefer to use an olivette that is in the region of three quarters of the float's stated loading. So a 0.7 or 0.75g olivette would go on a 1g float. This gives me enough spare capacity to lock the Olivette (inline), droppers and spare shot to add to the droppers if I feel it necessary. To start with I will place the olivette a foot above my hooklength and then add two No.8 droppers below that. The remaining shot will be added around the olivette but with more below than above. These spares can be slid down to increase the weight of the droppers.

I will also seek to overshot the float on the day so that it has to be held back for the bristle to show above the surface. Different flow rates will dictate a difference in the amount you need to overshot.

My hooklength is ten inches. This allows me to go nearly that much overdepth if required. A longer hooklength may, at times, be useful.

Fishing the Float

The ideal I am trying to achieve is to have the float bristle vertical while the float is held stationary. This tells me the bulk shotting, the olivette, is just about directly beneath the float and in turn indicates that the bait should be near the bottom and ahead of the float. The following diagram shows what I mean.

The diagram also shows what could be or is happening underwater when the bristle is not vertical.

 

 

If the bristle is not at or near vertical but leaning back towards the rod/pole when held back then a heavier float is required. Really only trial and error will tell you how heavy a float you need on your local river for different conditions. On the river Nene I use a 1 or 2g float. In times of flood I may need heavier, but then I wouldn't be fishing the river.

Once I am happy that the float is fishing as I wish then I can start to experiment on exactly how the fish want the bait presented. For those that have fished a stick float then the process is much the same with a flat float. The float can be held hard back in one position, the very bottom layers may be almost stationary and thus the fish are picking up static feed and bait. The float may need to be inched through such that if the bottom layer of water is moving slowly the bait is matching it. I may let the float run so that it sinks then reappears as the olivette catches it up and the line below runs through and gets ahead. A combination of all three should see the angler getting indications as to which is best on the day or even in that hour.

Bites can be any indication on the float, a dip, lift or stopping if running through.  Lift into any change in the float's behaviour.

Storage

You may wonder how to store flat floats as they will not sit neatly on a winder.  The solution is to attach the float by way of four pieces of silicone tubing and not thread the line through the float's eye.  That way the rig minus float can be stored on marked winders and the floats in a suitable storage box.  For my 1 & 2g floats I use an old videocassette case. 

Doing this can also aid changing floats if light conditions change and demand a different colour bristle.  I have red, yellow & black bristled versions.

It is also worth using more line on the rig than you would for a Stillwater.  You may want as much as six foot of line, possibly even more, so that the float can be run a fair distance down your swim.

Acknowledgement

I have to thank various others from whom I have picked up hints and tips on these floats, particularly storing them.  My main source is

https://www.maggotdrowning.com/forums/index.php



 

More Bits, Bobs and Tips

Having written about a few things I make or use and tips & tricks a few years ago I thought do should do an update.

Blackout

Although I find that for 99% of my fishing a red or yellow bristle on my pole floats is fine there are those rare occasions when a black tip will show up better. But I find it annoying when the sun shifts, clouds appear or something else changes and the black may not then be the right colour. Obviously the simple answer is to have two rigs made up with different colour bristles. This though is possibly not practical or something that someone with a limited number of topkits can do.

My simple answer is to only black the top half of the bristle. This means the base colour can still be seen if you remove some shot and thus more bristle is out of the water.

 

 

Despite having more bristle out of the water when the red is showing this does not affect bites as you are looking to react when the red disappears, not the whole bristle.

 

Too Many Expanders?

How many of us are guilty of preparing too many expanders for a day's fishing? OK, I know you can argue that they don't cost much and I admit to being, let's say prudent with money. But I hate waste. So I sorted out a simple method to prepare enough but no too many for a session.

Elsewhere ( http://neilofthenene.blogspot.com/2014_06_01_archive.html) I explain that I prepare my expanders at home in batches, with gelatine and keep them in the freezer. I have worked out that 50 expanders, of one size, are plenty for a day's fishing, sometimes even two. Though I always take a full pot to matches (just in case I have a stellar day), leftovers get re-frozen for pleasure sessions.

Counting out pellets each time you want to prepare some is a pain. So I stole an idea from The Boss's occasional job as a dispenser of medicines, specifically pills. Dispensers use a triangular tray marked so that without counting you know how many pills are on the tray. I just used an old cereal box, cut the corner out to produce a triangular tray with a lip round two sides. I then counted out 50 four mil expanders and arranged them in a one layer quadrant in the corner of the tray and drew a line around. I did the same with 6mils.

 

 

 

This means that when filled to the appropriate line, one layer deep, I know I have 50 pellets.

 

 

For Summer I will take 50 each of 4 & 6 mil as a mixture in one tub. Winter it will be 2s & 4s.

Spring Clamp

One of the odd non-angling things I carry is a 4 ½ inch spring clamp. Cheap as chips from Wilkinsons and has a few uses. Its main use is as a rod rest either on the edge of a platform, bucket or even top of a keepnet.

As I don't use a footplate or feeder arm I needed something simple to carry that would enable the rod to rest up against and realised this style of clamp fitted the bill. I always have my bucket with me, I find it useful for carrying odd bits and pieces and throwing things like litter into. The clamp sits on the edge of the bucket most of the time so it is easily to hand.

The pictures below show how I use it. And just for interest I have also included a picture showing how I occasionally use a pair of pole over/under rests for a feeder rod.

 

 

Note my watch under the rod, I talk about that later.

 

 

 

 

Freezing Maggots

I only use dead maggots on the hook and so don't freeze in large numbers. The following is about what I do to get a good result when defrosting.

People sometimes complain about their defrosted maggots turning black quickly. To understand why that happens I need to explain a bit of the science of freezing. Essentially you are freezing the water in whatever it is you are freezing. The slower the freezing process the larger the ice crystals that will form, the opposite of course being that faster equals smaller crystals. Large crystals destroy the internal structures of whatever you are freezing, small crystals do less damage. This is why you cannot normally freeze strawberries successfully in a home freezer.

If it takes too long for our maggots to freeze then their internal structures will be destroyed by the large ice crystals that will form and thus turn black on defrosting. The answer to successfully freezing maggots is therefore to get them to freeze quickly. To achieve that I do two things.

First is to freeze in small batches and by that I mean enough for a day's hookbait so in volume terms no more than 100mil. Second is to use either the fast freeze drawer if your freezer has one or place the maggots directly on the coolant channels at the bottom of the freezer.

This way I have never had maggots go black and I don't need to store them in water on my side tray. In fact I will re-freeze the leftovers and they are fine for another session.

I used to put my “daypack” of maggots in small foodbags. Then I realised that the small pots I get mayonnaise in when I order a pizza are the ideal size for a day's fishing.

Right Feeder?

I fished a match a couple of days before writing this and it demonstrated, to good effect, the advice about feeders I was intending to write.

I have noticed on more than a few occasions how using the right feeder can make a huge difference to your catch. In the match I fished I started on a hybrid feeder and had no bites. I switched to a pellet feeder and had one fish. I then tried a banjo feeder and that transformed my match. I started to pick up fish regularly and clawed my way to third. Had I stubbornly stuck to one type of feeder I doubt I would have framed.

So to me it is important to carry a range of feeders both in size and type and be prepared to switch around if you are not catching.

The easiest way to do this is have two feeder rods. You can be changing feeder on one while the other is in the water. In one of my other blog posts I have described my quick change system (http://neilofthenene.blogspot.com/2014/11/tips-tricks-hints.html)  or you can invest in one of the now readily available systems from the major manufacturers. Changing feeders or even to a straight lead takes less than a minute and is well worth the effort.

 

These are the range of feeders I have in my box at the moment.  I really need to get the other two sizes of hybrid feeders.  Of course really dedicated feeder anglers will carry a wider selection. 

 

 

Right Time?

Continuing on the legering theme. I always time my leger casts as demonstrated in the earlier picture and having recently heard Steve Ringer (feeder World Champion) say he does the same. Not only do I then know how long my feeder has been in the water but I can also spot if bites come after a particular length of time. For example, in the match I referred to above bites were coming at around four minutes after casting.

Why is knowing this important? In that match I knew I was wasting time if I had not had a bite after five minutes. It was more efficient to re-cast after five minutes and get a bite some nine to ten minutes after the first cast rather than leave the first cast out biteless for fifteen minutes. If I had not had a bite in this time I had to suspect something was wrong with the feeder or hookbait preventing a bite, so best to re-cast rather than fish on with a poorly presented bait.

Once you have established if there is a timing pattern to your bites you can adjust your casting frequency accordingly. Similarly, if the water has a strong tow then it is pointless fishing beyond five minutes as the groundbait or pellets will have been washed away from your hookbait.

In Winter I like to leave the first couple of casts fifteen minutes and often find bites come between 12 & 14 minutes.  But time seems to drag for me when legering and I can quite easily think that a real elapsed time of five minutes feels like 15. By using a watch I can leave the cast for a true 15 minutes before recasting.

Shot Stopper

I became frustrated with my Stotz holder sliding around in my seatbox drawer and somehow always ending up at the back of the drawer. I came up with a simple solution.

From eBay I got a length of self adhesive flexible magnetic strip. By sticking one part to two sides of the box in a corner and another two to the Stotz holder the holder now stays in place unless I want to remove it.

 

I did find the original adhesive didn't do the job and so both sets of strips on the holder and drawer have been superglued in place.  This stuff comes in various widths, I would recommend something around 12mm.  This gives a stronger hold between the two strips than the thinner 10mm version.

 

Also be careful when fitting.  The strips, if lined up against each other can offset slightly due to the arrangement of the magnetic poles in the strip.  So I glued one strip to the Stotz holder then offered up the strip that would go on the drawer, got that positioned correctly then with the strips sticking together on the holder applied the glue and used the holder to press the drawer strips into place.  This gives a perfect alignment and the strongest attraction between the two strips. 

 

 

 

 

Keeping Warm (On a Budget)

I realise that many anglers find fishing in the Winter months difficult due to the cold. But for those wishing to get out I thought I would offer my insights into staying comfortable when on the bank. And where possible, not having to spend a lot doing so.  But you cannot cut corners on some of the gear you need.

Personally I have no difficulty in fishing in the depths of Winter and actually enjoy breaking the ice on the canal and then catching without the nuisance of boats. Similarly rain does not bother me either. With the right clothing and accessories you can have a comfortable day. But so many Winter days are dry, calm and sunny that you don't have to brave the worst weather in order to go fishing in Winter.

I must mention here that I have not used an umbrella for several years. I just got tired of it getting in the way, water dripping off the rib ends just where it is least convenient and comfortable, the wind never coming from the “right” direction, the constant worry of it taking off, breaking pole and or rod or turning inside out and the extra weight of lugging one around is something I can do without.

Instead I rely on a decent waterproof suit.

Footwear

I have used SkeeTex boots since they first appeared on an angler's feet. The originals were bright blue because they were made for use in frozen food warehouses. I still recall my first sight of them at a frosty match draw on the river Lee in London. Everyone was laughing at the guy wearing them as they were bright blue and looked ten sizes too big. He had the last laugh though when he explained that he wasn't even wearing socks. I think more anglers than me went home realising that we had just seen a mighty leap forward in Winter angling footwear. I soon acquired my own pair.

In my opinion those early blue models were slightly superior to the current ones we now get. I don't remember ever having cold feet in them. Today, on really cold days I do find my toes get slightly chilly. Though this could be because some forty years have elapsed and perhaps my circulation isn't what it was when I was in my twenties. I am not sure if the inner sole is as good an insulator as the originals. But For 99% of the time they keep me comfortable.

Some find them difficult to walk in, I don't. You just have to adapt.

One thing though is that you don't need thick socks with them, it is better for your toes to have wiggle room.  And always remove the liners and dry them when you get home.  Remove the insole as well to allow the boot to dry.  Nothing shortens the life of the liner quicker than leaving them damp.  And replacements are not cheap. 

The outdoor Winter sportsman is though now well catered for and there are several excellent (by all reports) boots available. None will be cheap but will pay for themselves if you are able to fish more effectively because your feet are not cold.

One last mention about footwear. I have heard excellent reports about socks called Sealskinz. They are said to be waterproof and made for climbers, runners and cyclists. Like all top grade gear they appear not to be cheap (£40+) but if effective may well be worth the initial outlay. A pair may just be on my Christmas list this year (2018). I am told that they come in varying degrees of “warmness”. Not all are intended to keep the feet warm but dry. Apparently you need to look for those with a “5” warmth rating.

Trousers

I find that with a decent bib & brace I get away with just an ordinary pair of jeans and no need for base layer leggings underneath. I'll mention outerwear later.

Tops

I layer up in Winter. Base layer next to the skin is a sweat wicking undershirt of a man-made fibre. Mine was bought several years ago in the USA (Michigan), where in the north of the country they know a thing or two about cold weather. It was, unsurprisingly for me, a cheaper non-brand name make, probably got from a WalMart store or similar. I guess that Under Armour is currently seen as the market leader in such clothing, and have a price tag to match. You may find something similar on eBay for a lot less. I have just done a quick search and found a Gildan brand long sleeve sweat wicking tee for just over £7. I have had Gildan sports socks in the past and they have been excellent so I personally would trust the brand to produce a decent base layer tee shirt.

If the weather is not going to be that cold then I will use a long sleeve “thermal” tee shirt obtained from Asda for £8, I noticed recently Primark doing something similar for £5.

The next layer is a tee shirt or polo shirt. Nothing special.

Depending on the day I will then wear one of three hoodies. The first is a lightweight long sleeve tee type. A thin material but enough to add warmth with the hood up. I have two, both from Lidl and costing around £5. One has an ordinary neck, the other a roll or cowl type neck that can help to keep drafts out.

Then I have a normal jersey hoodie. Thicker and for colder and windy days. Again I use one of two. One is emblazoned with my club name, Osprey, and on the back a stylised osprey print. The second is my Maggotdrowning.com hoodie.

Finally I have really heavyweight hoodie that again was picked up in the USA. I have not though seen anything like it in this country.

Outer Layers - Bottom

Despite the fact that I like to save money elsewhere I don't think you should necessarily look to do so with what I consider the most important layer, certainly not if you need waterproof clothing.

For the bottom half it is a decent bib & brace. For several years I used an all in one suit but found that I got too hot on the days when it wasn't so cold or was sunny. Many years ago my then fishing buddy and myself discovered the benefits of wearing an all in one suit. But in those days it wasn't a specialist piece of angling clothing, just a boiler suit. But the difference even that made was noticeable.

My current B&B is Korum and I actually have three. One is older and in heavy rain will let some water through but is otherwise sound and so is used on dry days. Last year in my local tackle shop I was enquiring about a new B&B and they mentioned having some Korum ones that they were knocking out at well below normal price. Reason given was that Korum was changing its logo and had let some shops have the old stock at a good price. The price was so good I bought two.

Using the new one only in the worst weather will prolong its life thus saving money in the long run.

Some anglers have discovered that ski salopettes make decent fishing clothes and can be obtained at a reasonable price from Go Outdoors, and I assume eBay. I have also noticed reasonably priced sailing salopettes in Decathlon. So two shops and sports to check out if you are on a budget.

Again, looking outside our own branch of the sport can deliver suitable clothing at affordable prices. Imax make sea fishing clothing and their Thermal Suit can be had for a price that many of the top coarse brands would charge for just the bib & brace.

Outer Layers - Coats

I use a variety of coats depending on the predicted weather.

If it is not going to be too cold then I have a jacket that has a fleece inner and an outer nylon shell. The nylon helps keep sleeves dry when unhooking fish in the net. It doesn't have a hood but as long as it is dry that's not an issue. It came free with the last pole I bought in 2011 and is now showing signs of its age. Finding a replacement has been difficult.

For colder but dry days I use a TuffStuff Buckland jacket. This was sold by workwear retailers and mine cost less than £30, half the price of a fishing branded similar garment. Searching now it looks like it has been discontinued but I'm sure they will have replaced it with something similar. Designed obviously for builders and the like working outside it has a tough outer and quilted lining though again, no hood. It is as warm as toast. An added benefit is that the front pockets are huge and easily accessed. Great for keeping handwarmers in and your hands in when legering. So if you are looking for inexpensive clothing for fishing in the chillier months then I can say no more than search the workwear sellers on the internet for similar jackets.

If it is going to be wet most of the day then I have a full length, Dryfish coat. Waterproof, hooded and well padded. It is well worth buying a good coat of this type. But if you only wear it a few days each year it will last ages.

If showers are predicted I take my Summer weight unlined waterproof coat and wear it when needed over either the fleece or Buckland jacket.

Gloves

I use knitted “woollen” fingerless gloves. You are never going to keep your hands completely dry and warm when fishing. I have tried neoprene gloves but for me they are just too bulky and constricting. The knitted ones keep most of my hand warm even if they get wet. The point being that they keep any wind off the skin.

Snood/Balaclava/Hat

It is amazing how just having something round your neck on really cold days keeps you a lot warmer. I have a couple of polo neck shirts but for some reason a snood seems to work better.

I have two. The first I got is just a tube of fleece that pulls over the head and round the neck. Cost about £2 off eBay. It has a drawstring that allows one end to be closed turning it into a hat if necessary. It also has an added benefit.

There are days when the wind is coming straight at you and getting under your hood. I don't like the constriction of tying a hood's drawstring under my chin but what I have found is that if you pull the hood up and then put the snood on round your neck over the hoodie it tightens the hood around the face without the feeling of being tied up.

The second snood is one that can be used as a balaclava as well as an ordinary snood round the neck. On really cold days I have found this invaluable. Wearing both this one and the tube one keeps me snug. The balaclava will go over my baseball cap and so also help keep that secure when windy. This type can be had quite cheaply for around £4 either from eBay of a store like B&M.

Once the cold weather comes these two live in my carryall and so never forgotten.

 

As for hats I usually wear just a baseball cap.  Main reason is that I find the brightness of the sky, even on a dull day, is distracting.  Also if wet the peak keeps the rain off my glasses.  But if it is really cold then I may wear a beanie type hat.  Of course my hood goes over the top of whatever is on my head. 

Flask & Cup

I have had a cheap Wilkinson's flask for several years. 1 litre and does the job perfectly. Getting a hot drink inside you on a cold day certainly helps.

I only ever take hot water. I know some people prefer tea or coffee, even soup, in their flask. I have never liked hot drinks from a flask so I take hot water and Bovril cubes. That way I can make a drink up as I need it. I prefer Bovril to Oxo as the latter seems to leave a white residue in the bottom of the cup. The added benefit of using just water is that if forgotten the flask does not go mouldy inside!

I always pre-warm the flask before filling with boiling water.

If you do have the problem of a manky flask then the best solution is to use a denture tablet or even two to sterilise and clean it out. Just fill with cold water, add the tablet and leave overnight. And if you get limescale then pour in some vinegar and top up with water again leave overnight.

I take three or four Bovril cubes in a plastic container with a tight fitting lid, along with the Bovril is a small spoon and a piece of kitchen roll just to keep things clean. That container goes in a small lunch bag (came free with a box of cornflakes) and in the bag I also have an insulated travel mug. Once I have dissolved the Bovril on the flask's cup I transfer the liquid to the travel mug and top up with hot water and put the lid on. I find the Bovril dissolves quicker if crumbled into smaller pieces before adding the water.

As any angler knows you always get a bite when you open your flask so the travel mug helps keep the drink hot while you land the fish.

Food

I always have food with me in Winter. Two sausage rolls and a chocolate bar or two. Nothing nicer than sausage roll and hot Bovril. And the chocolate is a welcome treat on a cold day and nice to have when you get back in the car at the end of the session.

Lap Towel

For years now I have worn a towel round my waist Winter and Summer so why specifically mention it in this article? I have found that you can drape the towel over your hands when pole fishing in order to keep any wind off and thus they will be warmer. You can also do the same when legering if your pockets are difficult to access and get hands out of quickly.

I use a small hand or guest towel to which I sew half a bootlace halfway along each of the longer sides and that allows me to tie the towel round my waist. That way you have a double thickness of towel that on busy days can be reversed or folded over to access a drier layer or on cold days provides that bit of extra protection to the hands.

Handwarmers

I use the “magic gel” type. The ones that you snap a metal disk in to activate and boil for a few minutes to recharge. They are easily cleaned, no mess and no smell. I carry around six. Each one will last about 45 minutes and are a welcome comfort on cold days.

Be careful when buying them though. The smaller ones only last around 20 minutes. Most of mine are larger and cost around £3 or £5 for two. They come in a red box and the actual handwarmer has “Magic Gel” printed on it in white writing on a black background along with the instructions. Amazon or eBay is where you will find them.

 

Be careful though, if left boiling on the stove and the water boils away The Boss is not happy with the mess it makes of her saucepan!

Finally

Winter fishing, even with snow on the ground and ice on the water can be rewarding. It is worth braving the elements for the sense of achievement of having survived a day in the wild outdoors :-).

Seriously, if you are going out for a pleasure session and it is cold then look for a spot where you will be comfortable. That may be with trees providing shelter from the wind or with the wind at your back, particularly if you are using an umbrella. Note the position of the sun and where it will track during the day. Choosing what will be a sunny spot later will make you a lot warmer than sitting in shade all day.

Also it pays to know where fish are regularly caught when cold. I know that I can go to the canal at Foxton near Market Harborough (Wellingborough club water) and be guaranteed to catch even if I have to break the ice. No point in going somewhere that I will struggle.

If you are not comfortable you will not fish well so choosing the right spot can make a difference.

Having the right clothing, a flask, food and being prepared for the elements will ensure you will be as comfortable as possible in poor conditions.

Beginner's Guide To Pole Fishing - Index

1.  Glossary hopefully all the terms used in pole fishing explained.

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginner's Guide To Pole Fishing Part 1- Glossary

2.  History and Buying a Pole a little background to pole fishing and my suggestions on buying your first pole

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginner's Guide To Pole Fishing, Part 2 - History and Buying a Pole

3.  Elastication part 1 choosing elastics, cutting topkits and fitting a pole cup to a cupping kit

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing, Part 3a, Elasticating Your Pole (1 of 2)

4.  Elastication part 2 fitting bush, bung, elastic and attaching a connector or dacron

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginner's Guide To Pole Fishing, Part 3b - Elasticating Your Pole (2 of 2)

5.  Floats and shot I explain shot, Stotz & styls, markings on pole floats and the floats themselves

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 4, Floats & Shot

6.  Rigs and Hooklengths home made or ready made, making up rigs and hooks/hooklengths for pole fishing

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 5 - Rigs and Hooklengths

7.  Shotting the rig shotting patterns and how much shot to use and backshotting

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 6 – Shotting The Rig

8.  Fishing assembling the pole, handling it, setting pole rollers up, getting the rig in the water, feeding

Simply Fishing, Fishing Simply: Beginners Guide To Pole Fishing – Part 7 – Lets Get Fishing

Dotting Down

One of the more common mistakes I see anglers making is not shotting their floats low enough in the water. While I am not advocating dotting a float down to a pimple on every occasion I am talking about having the right amount of float tip showing and not the tip plus half the body, or two inches of waggler. The “right” amount is an individual choice given what is happening on any given day but I am willing to bet that many anglers would catch more by adding a shot or two and reacting to every disappearance.

I probably take things to extremes at times using size 13 shot and occasionally bristle grease (lip salve actually), even on carp rigs, to get the “perfect” amount of bristle showing. There are times though when I will take shot off in order to have more bristle above the water.  But my starting point is always to get the float as low as I can.  Indeed sometimes the weight of the bait is enough to sink the float.

Getting the float "dotted down" is a starting point.  That may not be to a pimple.  I will start a session getting the float as low in the water as I am comfortable with.  As the day progresses I may decide to take some shot off.  One reason, amongst many, may be that I actually want the bristle to catch any wind and move the float.  Or I may dot down to get the float out of the wind.  Dragging bottom or suspending a heavy bait are other reasons for having more float showing.  But these are conscious decisions made for an angling reason.  Not because "that will do".

I fully understand that there are those with poor eyesight for whom dotting down too far would make the float invisible. But not everyone I see failing to shot the float lower in the water can have poor eyes.  I also accept that for many just being out fishing is good enough.  Catching is a bonus.  But I go fishing to catch fish.  I want as much action, in a match or on a pleasure session, as I can create.  Are the people I see really completely satisfied fishing and not catching? 

An obvious question about dotting a float down is “ Why is this important?”.  It has been argued that the resistance a fish feels when sinking 10mm of a 2mm diameter bristle cannot be much more than sinking just 5mm. I would agree. The resistance, while there may be some, is not my main reason for shotting floats lower in the water. For me it is all about spotting bites.

Let us say you have 15mm of bristle showing and the float sinks by 3mm. The difference is negligible and possibly not seen as a bite at all. But with 3mm showing and the float sinks by three there is no doubt that you would see that and should react. Even carp, although aggressive feeders, can give very delicate bites, particularly in Winter.  Bites when it is cold are at a premium and thus you should be shotting the float so as not to miss any.  And I would rather strike a few times at false bites than miss the actual bite when it happens.  Also you are much more likely to react when the float disappears than when it just dips marginally.

On the subject of resistance felt by the fish I have seen bites fail to develop when the fish felt the resistance of trying to pull line above the float through the surface tension. Hence the reason I sink the line with backshot, but that is the subject of a separate post.  So I don't think resistance can be totally ignored, particularly so for thick tipped wagglers.

There is a chance that the resistance shown by trying to sink too much pole float bristle is also a reason for the fish to reject the bait. I don't know but why take the risk when with a little bit of fine tuning we can eliminate it. Certainly if we talk in terms of straight or even insert wagglers the resistance felt in trying to sink two inches of float is considerable – to a fish.

I also hear people say that with more float showing they can read bites.  This comment baffles me. Either it is a bite or not.  The float has dipped or it hasn't.  If it has then I strike.  The only real difference I ever notice is that line bites tend to be different to a proper bite.  Often I know I have foulhooked a fish just from the bite that I still instinctively reacted to when perhaps I shouldn't.  The float's disappearance is all I want to read.  When it does I react.

I think many anglers are frightened of sinking the float too far in case they cannot then see it and more importantly, not see a bite. My answer to that is to experiment, see how far you can sink the float and still see it, and importantly, see when it isn't there. In this context a thicker bristle can normally be set much lower in the water than a thinner one and still be seen. So if you are having difficulty or indeed have poor eyesight then try using a thicker bristled float and get that as low in the water as you can.

I also think that some anglers get close to shotting the float "perfectly" then can't be bothered to take the time, put in the effort or use the small shot required to finish the job.  I accept that for some with limited dexterity or poor sight using size 11, 12 and 13 shot is difficult.   But if you can then I strongly recommend taking the time and making the effort.  It is these fine margins that make some anglers stand out from the rest of us.  I find the cube shaped Stotz type weights much easier to apply to the line than traditional round shot.

Another thing to consider for anyone struggling to see a float is whether you are fishing too far out. People that fish with me regularly know that I don't, as a rule, fish the pole past 10-11m. I often joke that if I want to fish longer then I get the leger rod out. My eyesight is fine (I have an excellent optician), it is just that I have proved to myself over time that I don't need to wield 13m+ of pole in order to catch an acceptable number of fish. And I am talking about both commercials and canals.

People will ask “What about poor conditions?”. My answer is to still get the float as low in the water as possible. The closer the rig is to neutral buoyancy the less it will be affected by any chop on the water. A well shotted float will ride through the peaks and troughs unlike an undershotted one that will bounce up and down. In these conditions I find it better to use a much heavier float. That way the whole rig will stay more stable. It also helps if you use as long a bristle as possible on pole floats. Getting the body deeper in the water will reduce the surface's effect. It is worth investing in a few “windbeater” type floats such as the DT Windbeaters* so as to get the body of the float below the wave base and thus into more stable water. They may not see much use but well worth having for those really poor days.

 

If you want to understand why then research “Wave Base”. But simply on most lakes with wind created waves water will only be rising and falling in the top few inches. Below that it will be still. The depth of the wave base is roughly half the wavelength. So if the float body is below the wave base it will be stable.

 

 

 

DT Windbeaters. 

May look odd but this type of float, dotted down in a high wind/choppy surface, works well.

I'm sure everyone is familiar with the diagrams that are shown in magazines of shotting patterns. I get slightly annoyed that it is made to look so simple. Not that the pattern is wrong but that there is never any mention of fine tuning or trimming the shotting to get the float set as the angler wants. It is impossible that the precise shotting pattern demonstrated makes the float sit perfectly. In my experience even a float set perfectly today will require some tinkering the next time the rig is used. I am, in the main, talking pole floats with relatively fine bristles.

The way I shot my floats is to get the pattern of shot I want at the business end, towards the hooklength. As I use a limited range of floats I do know precisely what shot to add when making the rig so that the float, straight out of the box, will sit almost perfectly but probably needing a little extra shot added for me to be happy. These extra shot are normally added just below the float. This is for three reasons. The first is that they can be used as a tell-tale against the float moving. The second is that they will not interfere with the shotting pattern lower down the line and third they are easy to identify should I want to remove them later.

With stick float fishing it can pay to almost or actually overshot the float.  That way you have to hold it back to prevent it sinking.  This slows the bait right down and can be a devastating method on the right day. Then, if you are dragging line on the bottom you may need the float undershotted.

When fishing a waggler on a river and dragging bottom you will need more float showing to prevent the float from constantly being dragged under.  But you can still shot the float so that it just manages to keep progressing through the swim but show delicate bites.   

*  I have no commercial connection with DT Floats.  I know Dean but that is as far as my association goes.  I thank Dean for allowing me to use the picture from his website http://www.dt-floats.co.uk

Backshotting Pole Rigs

What Are Backshot?

I call any shot placed on the line between float and pole tip “backshot”. Some will differentiate between shot that do different functions, more about which I will explain later, and refer to trimming shot in addition to backshot. I prefer to keep things simple. So all shot above the float are, to me, backshot.

 

Background

I now backshot all my pole rigs. Doesn't matter if they are for carp or silvers, deep swims or shallow margins. I feel the benefits mean I catch more fish.

As I see it there are three main reasons for backshotting your rigs. First is that the line can be sunk and remain under the surface thus reducing any effects a wind may have on the float and rig. This means the rig is doing what you want, not what the wind wants to do to it. You have much better control of the float and rig

Second, bites, particularly from silvers such as canal roach, can be improved by the line above the float not sitting on the surface tension. This was demonstrated to me several years ago when fishing a Lincolnshire drain for small roach on a still, bright sunshine Summer's day. My float had a fine bristle, dotted down but with no backshot the line was sitting clearly on the surface. I could see the bristle dipping slightly but not going under as a "proper" bite. I decided to sink the line with a backshot and suddenly what had been tentative dips of the float now became positive disappearances and I started to catch much quicker. The fish could obviously feel the pressure required for them to not only sink the float but also break the line through the surface tension and rejected the bait. That marked the time I started to backshot all my rigs.

Backshotting can also help to speed up the time between the float disappearing and you hitting the bite. More of that later as I show you the various uses.

Basic Set-up

When making up rigs, be they silvers or carp, I incorporate two shot above the float. These are a No.11 and a No.9. The 11 is closest to the float, the 9 towards the pole tip.  Once I have the rig set at the correct depth I will slide the No.11 down so that it sits at a point that is the same distance from the eye as the tip of the float. This shot will, most of the time, register on the float though I have found not as much as the same shot being placed under the float. The difference is minimal but I am convinced real.

The No.9 will sit anywhere from right under the pole tip to a couple of inches above the No.11 and this will be dictated by the weather conditions and how the fish are biting on any given day. Its one of those variables that you cannot make a definitive ruling on. But at no time will I allow the No.9 to register on the float as it will make it sink.

Why No.11 and 9?  I feel the No.11 is a good compromise in that it will not unbalance the float but is heavy enough to keep the line sunk.  The No.9 is just a personal choice thing and has no logic, its just what I use.  It could just as well be a No.8 though I think a No.10 would be too small.  If conditions are poor I may substitute a No.8 for or add it to the No.9.  

Most of the time the No.9 will be held just below the water surface, particularly as the rig settles in the water. The No.9 will sink the line below the pole tip and then encourage the No.11 and line closest to the float to do the same. The following picture shows what I mean

 

 

 

You can see that the No.11 is hanging from the float and thus will contribute to the shotting load while the No.9 is hanging from the pole tip and having no effect on the float.

If bites are being missed because the angler thinks they are striking too late then the No.9 can be suspended above the float and if necessary moved closer so as to tighten the line between pole and float as per the following picture.

 

 

Note the slack line between the two shot so the No.11 is still adding to the float's loading.  We can though tighten the line to the float even more.  Useful if fishing for species like F1 carp.

 

 

Sliding the No.11 up to sit just below the No.9 increases the weight of this bulk and that can be helpful in a light breeze by keeping the line hanging as straight down as possible.  In stronger winds more shot can be added such as a No.8.  This is placed just above the No.9 so if later it is not needed it can be slid up to the pole tip. 

Ideally you want the bulk and float bristle close together so you can watch both at the same time.  The bristle to spot bites and the bulk to ensure you are keeping the line as tight as possible without pulling the float out of the water. 

By sliding the No.11 up the line it will no longer be registering on the float and shot may need to be added under the float to compensate.

If it is difficult to see the 9 & 11 bulk then adding a No.8 will help by increasing the size of the bulk.  Painting the shot with TippEx or similar can also aid visibility.

 

A variation of this set-up is to use three No.8 shot strung out from pole to float.  The general idea is the same, to tighten the line between the two.

 

Fine Adjustments 

I tend to be ultra demanding or critical about the amount of bristle showing above the water.  Sometimes either conditions change during the day or different baits will make a float settle to a different level.  One way of  getting the float sitting as I want is to use some very small shot, typically No.12 or 13 between the two backshot.  These can be slid up or down the line depending on whether the float needs more or less weight.  

 

In the picture you will see four No.12 shot have been incorporated into the backshotting pattern.  Some will refer to these as trimming shot.

 

You can slide as many or as few up/down the line as the situation demands.

 

The original principle is still the same that the shot close to the float will register on it while those under the pole tip will not.

 

These smaller shot can also be used to shot very fine bristles where, for example, a No.12 is too much and a No.13 too little when added below the float.  Adding a No12 as extra backshot close to the float seems to register slightly less than when on the line below the float. 

 

Windy!

Backshotting, as I have said can be used to control the float in a breeze but what happens when we are trying to fish in a high wind?  A No.9, even a No.8 is not going to help at times.  In poor conditions don't be afraid to increase the weight by using a No.6 or even larger.

 

 

You will see that the No.11 has been dispensed with and the large shot replaces the No.9.  What this does is create a shock absorber between pole and float.  If the pole gets blown around then instead of jerking the float the No.6 will rise and fall in the water and dampen some of the extreme movement.  It may even help to move the shot closer to the pole tip and place the tip underwater.  Experiment in poor conditions to see what works best for you on the day given the poor conditions. 

 

This big shot will probably work best with more line than normal between pole and float.  Don't be afraid to have three even four foot of line above the float.  Sacrificing the speed of transferring the strike to the float and then hook will be offset by getting more bites in the first place.